Week three + four: Beijing

Hi Ya’ll!

Thanks for keeping up with me and staying interested in my travel experiences here.
Sorry for the delay. I finally have some photos to share.
Check out some photos on my Flickr.

My cybershot died just before my trip, so I am mostly shooting with my Leica on real film, but here are a few I’ve shot with Henry’s Casio. He always goes on and on about his 10 Megapixel which I was only using on about 1/5 of what it is capable of…my cybershot was from 03, so it was about time for an upgrade anyway. It served me well. RIP Cybershot!

More Survival Mandarin (Sorry I can’t add accents, which is the key to being understood)

How large is the engine? (and I mean that to be suggestive motorheads!)
Fadongji pailiang shi duo da de?

Can you put my photos on a disk?
Ni neng ba wo de xiangpian kao zai yi zheng pan shang ma?

Dude, this band rocks!
Gemenr, zhei yuedui zhen niu! (yes, there is a word for “dude,” dude.)


More Equivalents:
1)
waterfall = pubu
Cool news for New York from PSFK: Olafur Eliasson, the Danish–Icelandic artist known for installing a massive sun in the Tate Modern, has just announced his plans to create a series of free standing waterfalls in the East River. The waterfalls will rise 60-70 feet in the air and be visible from the area around the Seaport,..
(Source More at PSFK )

2)
Beijing boys have haircuts to rival our coolest LES boys! (photos to come)



3)
Pet stores here are just like the ones back home except there are tiny piglets and chinchillas you will want to touch. No doggies in this mall pet store. For some reason most of the kitties had little smooshed faces. So cute.

4)
Bowling here includes larger than life photos of ladies in lingerie. Bowling babes at Gongti 100 Bowling and Tennis Center. 150 RMB/hr on the lanes with 5 RMB shoes. Can’t remember what the going price is a Gutter, but I don’t think you get an on screen dancing turkey when you get a double strike, thank you very much! My first bowling Turkey!

Historic Sites I have visited:

Tian’anmen Square It is covered in surveillance cameras. Hard to really process what happened there. Apparently, there is no official body count and many where killed along the wide boulevards leading up to the square. The square sits just south of the Forbidden City. Together they are the central axis of this city. Remembering that the symbol for China is center of the world, symbolism is huge here. All points begin here.

Forbidden City
I was most struck by the scaffolding and AmEx icon on every title plaque. Apparently, there used to be a Starbucks with the Forbidden City walls, but due to protest (from who I can’t imagine!), your nearest seasonal latte is waiting for you outside. There are also a number of basketball courts inside the courtyards. Basketball is now being taught to children in school rather than general Physical Ed. Watch out America, China rules Ping Pong, Gymnastics, Hurdling, and now Basketball. Though not all are as tall as Yao Ming! The audio playing through out the historic site has been translated to English.

The Great Wall
There are many points on which you can enter and climb the wall. The closest location to the city is about 1 hour outside the city, taking the special expressway. I was lucky enough to join some visiting friends in their car to The Great Wall. Upon arrival, we found great comfort in finding a Starbucks and knowing that they would have western style bathrooms and welcome the public. Ain’t no shame in patronizing a Starbucks when you are a million miles from home. We decided to take the tram up and make a decision about how to get down, once we reached the top. Tickets for the tram will run you 60 RMB round trip and 40 RMB for entry onto The Great Wall. The tram takes you to a resting area where you can get some food and souvenirs and you can either continue up toward the peak or start your decent. At the peak, you can be photographed with a banner and receive a certificate that acknowledges your assent to the top! It was the steepest walk I’ve ever taken. I’d suggest tram up, walk up the last bit to the top, and walk down. It is much more fun walking down.

I did feel like a bit of a wimp when I saw the occasional hardcore woman climbing up in heels. No Joke. Don’t mess with Chinese women. Oh, and do buy a “I Climbed The Great Wall” t-shirt, even if you just climbed down. I haven’t seen them available in the city and I am really regretting it. I just imagine walking down the street in New York in the spring, rocking my t-shirt that reads “I Climbed Down (in sharpie) The Great Wall.” Yes, it would make the boys drool and I would remember I had accomplished something not everyone can say they have. BUY A CHEAP T-SHIRT and get me one, please! (FYI Mandarin translation for “Great Wall T-shirt” = Changcheng T-xushan)

The Temple of Heaven Park
Besides the totally radical name, the park is awesome because of all the local activity here. As you enter, you see an organized group working out doing some Tai Chi and walk down the avenue and stroll across water calligraphy on the stone ground that has begun to fade into air or ice. It is such a poetic and beautiful sight. Even without understanding a word, the temporal nature of the art is breathtaking. As you approach another gate, you are likely to spot couples dancing doing the tango or other classical dances to music playing from a small PA. It is like a scene from a Wong Kar Wai film. Every gate requires another ticket and eventually leads you to the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The Hall of Abstinence and Echo Wall are also at this site.


Sites I’ve visited at Dashanzi 798 Art District this week:

Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art (UCCA)
Faurschou Gallery
798 PhotoGallery
Timezone 8 Bookstore


’85 New Wave at the Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art (UCCA) is the only show I’ve seen here that really helped me to look at the work in a historic context and helped me better understand the other forms of cultural production you will see wandering the small streets in the 798 area. On the labels next to the work, information like where the artist was born and educated was listed, something that would have been more valuable if I had a better understanding of the different regions in China, as well as, the kind of education offered at art schools here. I am always curious if the cultural exchange that really impacted these visual and performative artists is more formal or informal. It’s not like these schools have had rigorous visiting artists programs bringing International artists here. There is a new book out that might enlighten me, called “Airplanes and Parachutes: A Jonathan Napack Anthology.” You can find this book at Timezone 8 Bookstore.


One of my favorite artists I saw in the ’85 New Wave show is Zheng Peili. His pieces “Artistic Project: Document No. 2” (1987) and his video “30x30” (1988) really rocked my world. Let me quote from pieces “Artistic Project: Document No. 2” This plan aims to realize a dialogue and the peeping of it. The whole plan consists of eight parts:…

& check out:
Lawrence Weiner:To Allow the Light
There is a wall text piece by Weiner at the Ullens Center, as well.
Wish I could be there to see some of these time-based pieces.

UCCA brings Legendary Conceptual Artist Lawrence Weiner to Beijing for an artist’s talk and panel discussion, presented in conjunction with a selection of the artist’s short films, videos and books.

Lawrence Weiner (b. 1942, Bronx, New York) is one of the leading figures of conceptual art. Since first gaining international recognition in the 1960s, Weiner has used language as the primary vehicle for his work, challenging traditional assumptions about art’s authorship and reception. The artist has had major solo exhibitions at museums worldwide, including a large-scale retrospective at the Whitney Museum of American Art, on view through February 2008. In addition to his text-based works, Weiner is a prolific filmmaker and has created dozens of artist books.

TO ALLOW THE LIGHT and related film and library programs organized by UCCA curator David Spalding.

IN NEW YORK, you can see...

Whitney Museum of American Art / Anthology Film Archives

Lawrence Weiner:
Complete Films and Videos
January 23-29, 2008

PLEASE LOOK AT THE CAMERA.
EVERYBODY KNOWS THAT IT
IS THERE.


Read more about the founders, Guy and Myriam Ullens and the ’85 New Wave Movement: The Birth of Chinese Contemporary Art curated by Fei Dawei at www.ullens-center.org.


Galleri Faurschou which just opened its Beijing gallery doors with the opening of the Robert Rauschenberg: Three Decades show after his first a solo show in China 1985 at the National Art Gallery, Beijing as part of his Rauschenberg Overseas Culture Interchange tour. This show is said to have made a huge impact at a critical time for artists in China. Rauschenberg was the first major Western artist to come to China after Deng Xiaoping’s 1980’s cultural exchange policy enacted. The work spans 80s, 90s and 2000’s. I was impressed. Not because it was big and had a color scheme that reminds you of some sun faded 70s polaroids, but because he came here made these images that eventually entered into his personal language and resonated with me as someone new here. It felt familiar and new. I loved the connections he created with images from his photographic documentation. The gallery has an impressive line up of established Western artists to exhibit in ’08.

Read more about the show and the gallery.

And read about China’s economic growth since then in NYT.


798 PhotoGallery has a show of large color photographs that document people with their things. Lined up like a garage sale, each of these portraits shows something about the people being photographed, the place where they live, and how modern China is shaping their daily lives. The photographs are by Ma Hongjie & Huang Qingjun and titled “Family Stuff.”


What’s New for nights out:

High
If you are looking for a night out and not on a budget, I’d recommend the new bar/club Song in The Place Mall (home of the largest outdoor LCD screen). It is one of the only places charging a cover, but they have projected video and a nice sound system and the design by Zhong Song is worth a trip in and of its self. They host international DJs and VJs, attracting some very interesting Beijing folk. 50 RMB to come in and about 50 RMB per drink, I recommend the Moscow Mule or Lychee Martini.

Low
On the quieter north side of the popular hutong Nan Lougu Xiang in Dongcheng district near the Drum and Bell towers and the Houhai area, you will find one of the coolest low key, Chinese owned bars ever. From what I understand, the owner built the space & furniture inside. The furniture inside is reminiscent of New Zealand designer David Trubridge and the use of ubiquitous office ceiling panels drilled with peepholes for walls is very cool. It is called Si…if and it just opened, with a couple other locations on the popular backpackers cities like Dali. Drinks are very reasonably priced. Henry & I had a beer and rum & coke for 50 RMB. We attended a small birthday gathering where the bar had prepared a table with bottle of Chivas Regal and green tea, a popular way to take your whiskey.


Some Staples:
As some of you are thinking of making a trip to Beijing,
I’ll tell you about some places I think you will like.

Q Bar (Sanlitun) You can count on them for a well-made drink. It lives on top of a quiet hotel and has a rooftop deck for views during warmer months.

Bookworm Café and Library/Bookstore (Sanlitun) It gets packed with xpats during brunching hours, but try it on a weeknight. Its mellow and has a well stocked bar. New and old books and wifi.

Le Petit Gourmand (Sanlitun) CC-friendly* It is a nice place to stop in for a frenchy snack or bevy. It feels like you are in someone’s study or cozy sunroom in the back.

Nam Nam (Sanlitun) CC-friendly* My favorite place for dinner so far! Great Vietnamese food and atmosphere. It made us feel like we were somewhere much warmer.

Stone Boat Café (Ritan Park) Say yes to a sanctuary in the CBD, where you can get a damn good coffee, wifi, and yummy dumplings, not to mention a great view. It’s cozy and warm.

Ciao (CBD) In the Twin Towers basement, you can get a really good chicken salad wrap and Latte, enjoy WiFi and peruse Chinese Vogue! Latte 25 RMB.


Some Basics:

Lay of the Land
Beijing is a sprawling city. It has ring roads that are “express” ways to move traffic more quickly than smaller roads. The first ring road is actually called “Second Ring Road,” somewhat mimicking the old city walls. The 3rd and 4th ring roads are in the city. The 5th and 6th are getting out toward the burbs. The Central Business District (CBD) is situated on the east side between the 2nd and 3rd ring roads. They are building a new financial district on the west side, so I’m not sure what that means for the CBD. The Olympic park is north and central. The airport about 45 min out of the center northeast between the 5th and 6th ring roads.

Networking in Beijing
It’s all about “name cards” folks! You can get them printed here fast and cheap. English on one side and Mandarin on the other. It’s how people network and how galleries ask for your information. Graphic design here is not as sophisticated as in the big apple, so you don’t have to spend upwards of 300 bucks to have a special one made on letterpress, like the ones you might want to exchange in the west. Plus, it is unlikely that they will have mandarin font in stock.

Word to the Wise
It’s not so easy to navigate. Though, that said, with Mandarin speaking friends on hand, cabbies are usually willing to talk to someone on your cell to help communicate. Even for easy places, sometimes you need to call the business to have them direct the drivers. The city is changing at light speed and not everyone knows where you might want to go. So, plan to buy a phone here. Its cheap and get a sim card anywhere. It is your lifeline.


Photographic Projects:

These are locations I am interested in photographing.
1) “American Model”

2 )”The Green Wall of China”
The barrier of trees planted north of the city in Gansu.

“Forest Belts A Great Success, Yet Forest Health A Concern Large barrier forest systems totaling 10 million hectares serve as windbreaks that help stabilize desert sands and prevent wind erosion. Although the forest belts today are still doing the job, Chinese experts point to several problems with the forest belt system. In many places, only trees of one variety were planted. This left the forest belts especially vulnerable to diseases.”
Read about it.


Things I miss most:
1) Planning to stay a while?
Pack it or fork out the big bucks to buy it at Jenny Lou’s! SPICES, such as fennel, to make my pasta sauce. No kidding. Bring your peppercorn and mill if you plan to cook in.

2) BUY YOUR PROFESSIONAL FILM AT B&H before you come here. You can go to Beijing Photo City, but it is a trek and they may not have the film you want, but it is the only place I’ve seen that sells pro film and refrigerators to hold their stock. It is like a photo expo, but equally parades some crazy wedding gear. Never seen anything like it.

Read the description below:
Beijing Photography Equipment City 联系电话：88119740, 8811972 Photography Equipment City deals in a wide range of advanced, medium and low digital electronic devices, including local and imported cameras, photosensitive materials, bridal gowns and grande toilettes, studio props, photographic lightings, enlargement equipment, hot and cold mounting machines, along with photography books, headgear and wigs, cosmetics, wedding goods, studio lightings and advertising goods. The business scope covers all products in photographic industry. From fellow blogger (scroll down for English translation).

3) My web surfing FREEDOM. You can’t count on proxies, though they are helpful for non-confidential surfing. The government is all-powerful and can block as they wish.

4) META. My dog who would not fit under the city limits for shoulder height for pooches. Can’t be taller than 35 cm (that is less than 14 in.) at the shoulder. It hurts to be away from her. If I moved here, I’d have to move out to an area just outside of the city, where the big wigs live in villas and live the suburban “American style” dream in places like the Yosemite Villas.
See for yourself.

Meta Update:
She is doing well in Atlanta with my sister. We booked an appt with the University of GA Vet Teaching Hospital in hopes of getting an MRI in late February. We have been dealing with her edema since early October 2007 and seen 4 vets, trying herbal meds and acupuncture, as there is no cure for edema. The reason I am not letting this go is because edema is seen as a symptom rather than a stand-alone medical condition. I’ve been told there is nothing to do and that vet medicine is not advanced enough to have things in place that deal with edema. I figure if there is something that exists for people, that there must be something for Meta. And more importantly, I want to know what is causing the inflammation. Yun says that it seems to be bothering her, which seemingly wasn’t the case before. If anyone has info on EDEMA, please pass along.


Bike update:
I decided to go with a local bike shop in the Sanlitun area. I bought a Chinese brand, the Phoenix, shaped like a cruiser with hybrid tires. The older model has more metal, but mine has the newer lighter but not as cool plastic parts, like pedals and a bell. We bargained and got the bike, a basket and a cool lock for 340 RMB. Earmuffs not included.

Week two: Beijing

January 2, 2008

Today is my Father’s birthday. He would have turned 72 today. He had no idea I wanted to come to China. Though he was the one years ago, that had suggested I study Mandarin as my foreign language. I chose Italian then Spanish, after studying German in high school. I've retained about 0% of all of those choices. And now, here I am with a fall's worth of after work Mandarin classes, struggling to say, "take out, please." I'm sure in some small way he would have been excited to know about my trip here.

In my first week, I have managed to gravitate towards places that feel like home: Wal-Mart and Ikea. The big box phenomenon has infected China with its must have impulse items and affordable living ideas. These two places take credit cards, but the whole idea of plastic is still very rare. One must carry cold cash for most day-to-day expenditures. Food, drink, taxi, shopping, film developing, and even to pay bills. I stood in line at a local bank for about 30 minutes waiting for my number to flash above a teller’s window to help Henry pay his Internet bill. I have become so accustomed to using plastic; I hardly carry cash in New York because inevitably it disappears! Here, I walked into the equivalent to a local deli and chose a new cell phone number from a hand written list, with the lucky number numbers being more expensive and first to be selected, I chose one closest to Henry's. With the number you have a set plan and a new SIM card. It's incredible how easy SIM cards make travel. Henry has a stack of them, each holding a different country's identity and local contacts. The card even remembers your old messages when you have been away for years at a time. Your iPhones have them. So do most of T-mobiles phones.

Anyhow, there is a difference in being here as a visitor and staying here with some intention of investing some time. I am constantly amazed at the westerners who have managed to learn enough Mandarin to live here. It gives me hope that I could, if I decided to be here for a while. But staying here for longer than a short visit presents some problems. Like today, I went to the Police Station to register as a foreign temporary resident. Henry has to register me, but because his registration information wasn't complete, we were turned away. The real injustice was in their lack of record of something he had come in on two separate occasions to complete! So goes the bureaucratic red tape. You just have to resign yourself to a slower pace of things when it comes to government agencies. It makes it more exciting if you imagine you are in a Kafka story. Just go with it.

But on the other hand, hard labor is cheap and efficient.
Within one hour of ordering the equivalent of a 5-gallon container of drinking water on a Saturday night, a young man stood at our door with our water. The construction workers that are erecting all the new Olympic other government buildings work day and night, living on-site in temporary housing. The night skyline, when you can see it through the smog is beautiful and full of neon lights and sparks in the dark spaces where new buildings are coming up overnight.



Equivalents

$1 = 7.3 RMB approx

2 seasonal coffees at Starbucks = 58 RMB = approx $8

the cheapest adult bike at Wal Mart
199 RMB approximately equivalent to $27 US
(photo will be made available soon)

order of 12 steamed buns = 4 RMB = $0.55

bottle of Jamesons 128 RMB = approx $17.50

prices of cocktails can vary like prices for massages*
upmarket expat bars can charge almost as much as a drink in Brooklyn
even the fanciest bar I've seen, the LAN Club, a Stark designed explosion of opulence, a bevy will only put you back about $8 each.
Check it out:
http://www.lanbeijing.com
(turn the volume down if you are in the office or
have "BOS" - boss over shoulder!)

Low key dinner out for two is about 50 RMB < $7 Nice dinner costs for two is under 100 RMB < $15 Supper fancy dinner for two can cost over 200 RMB < $30 (and there is no tipping here) Small dogs being walked in New York are often dressed in booties and rainjackets or tracksuits or hoodies. In Beijing, the small dogs also don outfits for their evening strolls, but like allot of things here, are a little dirtier than New York counterparts. "DL" in the States means Down low, as in the scoop. Here "DL" is code for the one who shall not be named. Survival Mandarin Boo Yao = Not interested! Ni Hao = Hi, how are you? Hen hao = Very well, thanks. Zaijian = See ya! Duibuqi = Pardon me. Mei guanxi = Ain’t no big thing. No apologies necessary. Wo bu shi Zhonguoren = I am not a Chinese person. Daizou = to go, as in take-out. Jiao... = My name is... Mei Dan = Check, please. January 8, 2008 What I have seen: 1) The increasingly infamous 798 Dashanzi Art Zone: Far more extensive than I could have imagined. The area is full of galleries, cafes, studios, stores, and TBD in transition spaces. The level of work varies and there is an attitude of not separating high and low art or commercial or contemporary art practice here. The entire are has an art school experimental vibe and you can see work from local and international artists, with work selling for serious art market prices. The market here is totally inflated, but the fact that this space exists is a real testament to the critical mass of locals interested in cultural production like never before! You’ll spot lots of westerns, scouting… www.798space.com 2) Just west of Tiananmen Square, The new National Grand Theatre designed by French architect Paul Andreu, who also designed Terminal 3 at Dubai International Airport and a terminal of the Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris called Paris Aéroport Charles de Gaulle 1: This ginormous titanium half oval is made complete by in the shallow reflection pool that serves as both moat and mirror. As you circumnavigate this space age looking structure, you might be at a loss for an access point. It takes about 15 minutes to stroll around this building. It might take the same to find an entrance, then when you do, you will just be met with a barrier of metal detectors and find out that no further entrance will be permitted without purchase of a ticket costing way too much and sold out anyway for months! I had heard a rumor about 30 RMB standing room only tickets for locals, but can’t confirm. (if you can read Chinese, no English version available) http://www.chncpa.org http://www.china.org.cn/english/2005/Feb/120675.htm 3) Glimpses of sites at the Olympic park being called the Olympic Green: + The National Stadium aka “The Birds Nest” Olympic Stadium designed by Swiss-based Herzog & de Meuron in collaboration with local artist Ai Weiwei + The National Aquatics Center aka “The Water Cube” created by Australian-based architects PTW and engineering firm Ove Arup Check out the Official site: http://en.beijing2008.cn/cptvenues/ What I have learned: 1) Titanium is not indestructible. 2) When journeying over the wild oceans waters and seeing potential danger, never call a Mayday distress signal unless you are ready to abandon ship. And when doing so, there is an exact protocol to follow, including calling “Mayday, Mayday, Mayday” 3 times.

3) Back in the day, diplomats living in Beijing were only allowed to use a special currency accepted at specific locations for all their needs and commerce, called Foreign Exchange Certificates, or FEC's. The Friendship Store was created for foreigners to offer familiar products from home that was not until recently made available to the greater public. Follow this link to find out more or make a purchase!


A recent NYT article talks about currency and FECs. I personally didn’t realize that FECs were floating around and have never seen any product marked with prices in FEC and RMB, but what do I know.


Some basic facts you ought to know:

There are many dialects in China such as Beijingese and Shanghainese, for every province, but Mandarin in the National Language of Mainland China. Though people may not understand each other’s speech, everyone can read the same text, even in the traditionally Cantonese speaking areas such as Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Written Chinese is a pictorial and poetic language. As the symbol for China looks like and means “Center of the Earth” (Earth symbolized by the square), the symbol for depression is the symbol for love with a cage around it and the symbol for marriage are two characters for happiness side by side, more commonly referred to as “Double Happiness.”

Bei means Northern + Jing means Capital = “Northern Capital”

Tiananmen translates to “Gate of Heavenly Peace”
RMB = “currency of the people”



A recent New Yorker article talks about the new generation of car drivers in Beijing, driving like they walk, an observation I made upon first arrival here. If you’ve ever found yourself in the hustle and bustle of any Chinatown, USA or beyond, you may have a taste of the laws that govern that movement…
In most cases Chinese culture promotes shying away from confrontation, but the laws of nature in regard to resources and need seem to have overflowed onto the highways. Being a nation of billions vying for limited resources have taught these urban Chinese to be more aggressive and not give way for anyone whether in cars, bicycles or on foot! Full speed ahead seems to be the motto, using the horn to communicate to people as one might a heard of animals you might encounter in the countryside. Cyclists seem to give way more than car drivers as there usually is space to swerve around obstacles, but with the speed of the automobile and the number of vehicles that occupy the lanes, the inexperienced and more aggressive driver temps fate only pressing harder on the gas.


Health update:

After an almost instant upper respiratory infection upon arrival, I spend a week feeling like I couldn't stop coughing and catch my breath. After a visit from Henry's parents, both MDs, I got what I needed: a round of antibiotics, a steroid inhaler, and a fast acting inhaler to clam my asthmatic fits. Feeling better and more energetic, but not quite ready to hit the smoke filled bars.

The target="_blank">real DL on the "Blue Skys" in Beijing.


Signing off
Love Beijing

Week one: Beijing

Arriving in Beijing

ATL--------(14.5 hrs in flight)-------Seoul, Incheon [2.5 hrs layover]
Seoul, Incheon International Airport-------(2.5 hrs in flight)—PEK
Total approx 20 hrs in transit for love

After about 15 hours Atlanta to Seoul, flying west to go east over the Alaskan tundra, a 2 and half layover in Incheon, the international airport outside of Seoul, which is 14 hrs ahead of New York time and another 2 hours to Beijing, which is only 13 hrs ahead of New York, my body had knocked its immune system down to almost zero. I arrived on a level 5 night in Beijing. The air was thick inside the airport, as well as outside, reducing visibility to about 30 ft (that’s an estimate from my old scuba days). Level 5 is the worst rating of air quality as put forth by the Chinese government. The next day remained a level 5, keeping me indoors for most of the day, inside my protected glass tower, over looking a hotel with a Chinese flag that lay almost frozen on the rooftop flag pole. I prayed for wind, as that is the only chance of blowing this thick particle filled air and dispersing it to allow for more clarity. The 2nd day came and brought some wind, which is something that the geography in this place naturally discourages with mountains and arid desert surrounding the city. I could all of a sudden see the Twin Towers where Henry works, which is only a 5 min walk from here. The air felt colder, but clearer and breathable. This is my 3rd day and it is being call the 245th clear day of the calendar year. This is a city goal of 245, working towards the Olympic year of 2008. Beijing has hit its target! I love these arbitrary measures of success. Goals are good. They help move toward progress, so arbitrary or not, I am grateful for the clear day.



My first impressions of Beijing


Though I have been trying to lay low and let my body recover from its initial shock, I have with gracious guidance been introduced to a few lovely places. Acknowledging that feeling sick colors how receptive one might feel, I have been pleasantly surprised by the availability of the “comforts of home.”

Managing My Expectations

Air
Knowing air quality in Beijing is the worst it has ever been and the worst I will have ever experienced, I arrived without a big shock, but was surprised how the outside air infiltrates interiors.

Seriously, these were my first days in Beijing.


Food
I have only been told how great the food is here. So far, no tummy transition issues and the quality and variety of cuisine are only being confirmed with every meal. I have so far eaten at the Chinese equivalent of chain fast food, a great noodle place, a fancy Japanese place with an extensive menu, Yunnan cuisine at Middle 8 Restaurant, and western food at an ex-pat owned and operated, Vineyard Café, located off a hutong, tucked away for travelers to seek out and discover.

Massage
Massage has also been recommended whenever mentioning my travel plans. Henry had raved about a place called Dragon Fly in a very ex-pat friendly area called Sanlitun. It is fancy, meeting all western standards for an indulgent spa experience. I have been warned about the massage parlors with neon out front and what is referred to as the “Hong Kong” massage. I am not sure what a Western woman’s experience would be in such an establishment, but maybe I should wander in and see. When in Beijing, right!?

Henry asked me yesterday, what my impression of Beijing would be so far if I were here as a visitor to see the Olympics. As I began to answer, saying I am actually very impressed at how modern and…I hocked up a lugee (spelling suggested by urbandictionary.com), prematurely finishing my answer, as I searched in my big New Yorker purse for my travel pack of Kleenex. By the time I sorted that out, the cab ride was over and we were distracted by our next activity. So, with some time to think about it and my handy laptop to help coax out the words, here it goes…

Beijing has an amazing skyline, what I have seen of it. Filled with towering modern buildings and new ones being erected everyday. The labor force is cheap and works insane hours. On our way to dinner, I gazed out the taxi window at the falling sparks from the new CCTV bridge connecting two towers at some crazy height in the air. It feels a bit Sci-Fi here. I am reminded of Blade Runner, the mix of advanced technology and the brutal streets that remind us of our human history, filled with dingy, dark ally ways, vermin and the unfortunate, living in the dark. It's not quite that dim but Beijing’s traditional hutongs are disappearing. The new hyper-urban landscape can’t disappear the life that has existed in these ally ways as quickly. The Chinese symbol for destroy is stamped on buildings off the main through fares. In the five minute walk to Henry’s work, I see small shops offering shoes, film developing, fruit, and sex stuffs (this is a mystery to me still), restaurants low and high, and towering steel and glass buildings that raise the ceiling from 2 stories high to numbers in the 20’s and 30’s. The surface for most of this distance is dirt and rocks, some concrete and sidewalk. One is very aware of the feeling of transition and all the difficulties that come along with change at such a rapid pace.

So, as a tourist, here to see China perform on the world stage, as host of the Olympic Games 2008, I perceive the city to be very modern at quick glance. If I were wealthy enough to be here to watch the games, I imagine I’d have booked a room in one of the new premier 7 star hotels, where every modern convenience will be made available to me, blurring the reality of real life in Beijing. As an official visitor, I imagine I will be ushered from one prepared venue to another, with a tailor made experience to only show the best aspects of what a modern Beijing can offer. I am lucky though, to be limited by my means. I am definitely not roughing it, but I am through choice and by limitations, experiencing Beijing on a more down to earth reality. Staying with a resident of the city, means having the fast track to the cool and desirable venues the city has to offer. I am fortunate to have Henry to guide me through this immense city. He lives here now and had spent a year studying here a few years back and has a good command of the language, which makes a huge difference. This means not only does he have access to what exists on an ex-pats radar, but also a wider scope of what a metropolitan Beijinger may know about. It is definitely not a man on the street view of the city, but it is more real than a government curated experience that I expect the Olympic visitors will be outfitted, due mostly to their lack of connection to the local community. So braver visitors will want to stray off the beaten track and will employ some Mandarin speaking ex-pats to show them the way, bridging the language gap, if not the cultural. But more and more I am experiencing a sort of “universal” set of ideals shaping the fashion and culture of this city. Commerce and media’s impact on the city’s youth and privileged growing middle class is very apparent in the local fashion and pop culture. Its like we’ve all been watching the same television with the same stars wearing the same clothes and listening to the same music. I guess I thought I might stick out, as a New Yorker, even if I am Asian. But in reality, I waited my turn in a local bank, and as I looked across the room, I was humbled. A couple of women sit in front of me holding their Starbucks coffee cups and one dons a MuiMui purse. To my left a local Chinese woman wearing a cute shawl sweater with a belt, not unlike sweaters I had been eyeing in New York before coming here. And of course there are those little disconnects, if you look a bit closer. The brands may be different, the technology may seem simpler, the cultural codes may seem less civilized, but on the whole, I can understand after only being here for 3 days, why everyone spits on the streets and doesn’t skip a beat. If you were here, you’d be hocking up lugees too and maybe like me choose to hunt down a travel Kleenex or just find immediate relief by joining the masses and just spitting onto the street. It is something that to a Westerner may at first seem offensive and that the government is trying hard to change in the way of peoples habits, but if it is anything like trying to get a certain someone to put the toilet seat down, I imagine the Westerners may end up adapting to their hosts, rather than waiting for the locals to adopt new standards for their visitors.

All in all, it is an amazing city. Bright lights, big city with about anything you might be looking for in terms of Art, architecture, food, entertainment, and modern comforts. And even with a weak dollar, your dollar goes a long way.

Going South

Sunday, Dec 16

I left Brooklyn last Sunday, despite weather warnings of freezing rain. Every trip down is an ordeal. Packing up Meta's crate, bed, toys, food/treats, my bags, food and water for the road. This time I had to pack anticipating months away, preparing for my first sublet-er, and with only a few days to prepare, as I worked until the very last moment. All in all, my good-byes went surprisingly well and I was fortunate enough to find a lovely woman to sublet, alleviating most of my worries in Brooklyn. Quit my job & am heading to Beijing for a couple months! But first Georgia...

As soon as, I hit the turnpike the weather lightened up and I drove into a beautiful sunset.

On all my drives South, I try to see my friend John Morris and his partner, Christina, & dog, Diego in Baltimore. I have stayed with them in 3 different places through the years of passing through. They always do something special when I come for a visit and make me feel at home. They are the only artist couple I know that lives, works, and travels well together. Last time, end of summer 07, I brought Henry and Meta, and John grilled for us! This time it was almost Christmas, so I got to see John haul in the tree, Christina decorate it and watch at John whipped up the most delicious pork chops and mashed potatoes. The evening ended with some Bailey's Irish Creme and a warm fire, watching Christina open some very intriguing gifts from her boss.

So, now it is one week from Christmas eve, Monday. I have a long drive ahead of me to Athens, GA. If I'm lucky, I was told that it is a 12 hr drive and maybe more with doggie in tow.

Even with taking the scenic route and all the breaks for bad fast food or "doing business" or stretching or napping, we made it. Left Baltimore at 10 am and made to Dana's around 10 pm. Exactly 12 hours. The same time difference between Henry and I before we fell back an hour earlier this Fall. Driving with Meta keeps me calm and makes distance driving, even with holiday traffic, bearable.


Arriving at Dana's

When I arrived, Dana had not gotten home from work at the studio, but Craig was there to let me in. Craig and Dana have been together for years. We are all connected somehow through Athens. Athens is a college town, but it has a certain draw that attracts people to stay or come back. I'm a fan of the food and not the football, but I do like UGA (the V, I believe) the mascot American Bulldog who comes in from Savannah for game days and gets to walk on a red carpet. That's about all I know about the UGA Dawgs tradition. Anyway, arriving in Athens is always a bit strange. So much history. I don't really love it there, but living can be easy.

Craig and I catch up. I peak into the spare room and notice that not only has the house been arranged, but the spare room is full with someone else's things. Craig tells me Dana just got a new roommate. I shut the door so Meta doesn't get into this stranger's things and keep catching up with Craig. He has just finished his first feature length film, that received many accolades publicly and privately. He just screened it again in one of the Carolina's, maybe at his old Alma mater, for a special audience of extended family. I knew this had been a big deal and he seemed to be pleased with the experience. Dana gets home, now three cars sit on the front lawn. She is exhausted and glad to be home. We open a bottle of wine and she asks if I'm hungry. She pulls out a frozen bag and tells me the story of how she got this special gourmet soup shipped in from New England. I love the story and the soup. We sit and chat with music from the laptop playing in the background. After I finish my soup and we finish off a small tub of Haagen-dazs ice cream, I retire to the living room where I make my bed on the couch. I notice a small cloth, possibly an old t-shirt twirled and stuffed into a hole in the window I will be facing as I fall asleep. Dana tells me a bird has been banging into the window for days and maybe the hole had been made by this bird. A totally amazing story that seems unlikely, but what else could it had been. The hole is almost a perfect circle, being gagged to keep out the cold air from outside. Craig shows me the pile of broken glass pieces he has collected on the table. I find a piece of glass in the cushion of the couch I am about to lay down on and add it to Craig's pile. We are all puzzled by what could have made this almost 3 inch diameter perfect circle in Dana's window.