Friday, February 15, 2008

Week eight and a half: Beijing, the final countdown

Yes, it my last week and a half to make my mark on Beijing.

Hopefully, I am planting seeds that will blossom into amazing opportunities.

What did I hope to accomplish, but didn't:
1) learn more Mandarin
2) find more purchasing power (due to our ever decreasing dollar)
3) find a vintage track bike

But what I did do:
1) Get a smooch from a baby elephant!
2) Sea kayak around a tropical paradise and into pitch black caves
3) See a Gibbon Rehab Center for all those poor monkeys that had been captured as babies and trained to do very awful things for the jollies of the tourism industry!
4) Got acupuncture-d twice my last week
5) Go for a site visit with Henry to the Villas. These are the villas I have been thinking about.
The American- style villas at Yosemite...they go for around 4 mill US. Totally absurd.

One thing I would like to ask of you:

If you were to donate ONE book
to a developing photo library in Beijing, what would it be?

Please post as comments and so we might all share your generosity.
I'll be sure to include all contributing members in the final list.

Our Conceptual Library starts here:
1) I Want to Take Picture (the Twin Palm re-print, recently released)
2) (your book here)
3) Classic Essays on Photography by Alan Trachtenberg
4) The Contest of Meaning Critical Histories of Photography Editor Richard Bolton
5) The Burden of Representation by John Tagg
6) Against Interpretation & On Photography by Susan Sontag
7)
8)

Any and all answers will be helpful and documented for a project I am currently formulating
a million miles away. OK, so that was an exaggeration: it is exactly...

Distance is 11,012 kilometers
or
6843 miles
or
5946 nautical miles


That is traveling west from New York and East from Beijing.
You don't have to understand it, just fly it and it will make sense!

How about them nautical miles.

PS
for you clandestine Sailors out there, I want in.
Make yourselves known & tell me where to sign up for a private lesson.
It is not just a romantic notion I'm after, I have just added "sailing around the world" to my list of must-do's before I turn, lets say...50. (before 30, was learn to surf. before 40, is still a secret.)

I'll be screening Deep Water ASAP.
The story of Crowhurst is fascinating.
No macho stunts here.
Not trying to make this an endurance race to place one's self in nautical history.
Just looking for a good time with educational opportunities.
There are many ports I want to visit and explore.

If I were back in college, I would go to semester at sea, but now as a thirty-something...
I'd rather rock it on my or a friends boat and skip all the group planned activities.
The joys of finally being an adult. Freedom to not join groups.

If it is not translating, you should be having a giggle right now.

[ha ha, HA HA (fireworks in the background) ha...]



So, the sounds outside my window, are the sounds of explosives. Little explosives meant for use in celebratory activities and only allowed here for very special occasions, such as New Years. It is a time when any Joe, Mick, or Jennifer can buy them freely on the streets and set them off as they choose, excluding right next to diplomatic areas and Im sure other "sensitive" areas. I spent 10 RMB on some love rockets for Henry, so I could exclaim my love through fireworks! To be honest Im not sure which way is up or down and there are no "safety" labels, so they are decorating the coffee table for now, but we have to set them off before the deadline...sometime around when I have to hop on the place back home.

For those of you who have not watched a movie with me in a while, part of the joke is that I love having the subtitles on, even on English language films. It started with watching so many foreign language films. And on the occasion that it was a Korean film, I was amazed at how language often didnt translate well, whether the translator or due to cultural differences, a lot falls through the cracks.
Anyway, I became addicted to watching with the subtitles for anything that offered it. You would be surprised with even English to [English] translation can be very funny. Point is, I figured out I know more Korean than I thought and that I love problems with translation!

SO, Im in heaven watching DVDs "made in China" with subtitling for [English]. Imagine, you pop in a silly Rom-Com (cuz thats all Henry will watch) and the subtitles are a whole other story happening under the main story line. Sometimes, there another layer of having an Italian copy of an American film that then has to be translated back to [English] (am I blowing your mind, yet?)...basically, you get "Fur," an imaginary portrait of Diane Arbus, starring Nicole Kidman & my teenage fantasy, Robert Downy Jr., in a pretty provocative love story that probably went straight to DVD, but first was distributed in Italy to some critic that sold his industry copy on the black market (oh, sorry that was an episode of nip/tuck) anyway, you get the convoluted stream of consciousness flow of my story. End result is an pretty hilarious [English] translation of the dialog in the original film.

Guess you had to be there.

I'll try to bring home "Fur" for your viewing pleasure. I think there are a lot of these films with recognizable Hollywood stars but in totally unrecognizable titles that are just sold to foreign markets as part of delux packages with blockbusters. There are so many, it's truly a C-movie paradise. But the other unique thing is that lesser known art films that you may not have even had access to in school. Its like a film geeks dream come true. 10 RMB per DVD with cover. Criterion anthology after anthology of your favorite film makers. I even saw copies of the highly acclaimed British documentary series Planet Earth & The Blue Planet Seas of Life narrated by David Attenborough, which I had given to my sister and her husband for Christmas before I left Atlanta and have by very eager to see ever since!


MUST SEE FILM:
Antonioni's documentary Chung Kuo made in 1972,
just 2 years after Italy opened diplomatic relations with China.
He was invited here to document everyday life.
After viewing the film, the govt banned the film and was not able to be seen here until 2004.
get it here.

Italy 1972 Color
35mm 240minutes
Producer
Michelangelo Antonioni
Photography
Luciano Tovoli
Music
Luciano Berio


"...I don't believe that a documentary would have been closer to reality if it had lacked "organized" scenes. The singing children in the houses, and all the rest of the "representation" are obviously images that the Chinese wished to provide, but are not images forced upon the reality of the country..." "Everything I did in China was done in complete accord with the people who were there to accompany me. Usually there were eight of them. In Nanking there fourteen. Thus I never did anything that wasn't allowed and I never shot anything without their being present."
—On Chung Kuo Cina
(Chung Kuo Cina, ed. Lorenzo Cuccu, 1974; Film Quarterly, Summer 1975)

Read more here.

I am in the process of curating a film series as part of my residency work.

The idea is to show films are not easily accessible there, that look at human nature, everyday life, and how culturally specific our values and ideas can be. My aim to to show the universal humanity across cultural divides, but also how social value systems are cultural and sometimes very political.

1) Titicut Follies, Wiseman, 1967
2) Antonioni's Chung Kuo, 1972
3) How to Live in the FRG, Farocki, 1990
4) Does your soul have a cold?, Mills 2007
5) TBD

Possibles List:
Glaneurs et la glaneuse, Les (The Gleaners and I), Varda 2000
Gates of Heaven, Errol Morris, 1978



ON GETTING ACUPUNCTURE-D



I met a lovely new friend this week named Mia. After meeting her for the first time, we had exchanged ideas about art, film, china, the press, and acupuncture! I had been wanting to try acupuncture for a while, but after subjecting Meta to it, I thought I better find out for myself. Mia took me to a traditional Chinese Medicine hospital, where I had to register for the doctor of my choosing and just go find his office. We arrived at 1:30 to find that our doctor was taking a little nap after lunch. He woke up and began to ask about our ailments. I had a couple I could choose from but had to decide quickly whether I would be laying on my back or my stomach for the next hour. I went with the chronic problem- knots of tension in my neck and shoulders, meaning I could lie down on my tummy. Mia advised me on the best position to take, as one should not move around after the needles have been placed. I did my best for the next hour to remain still. As each needle was placed, I thought about how the doctor was mapping my body in a way it had never been done before.
The best part of the experience was the conversation Mia and I had while letting the needles work their magic. Through a dingy white hospital curtain, I asked questions. Sometimes for the doctor, so Mia translated and sometimes to Mia. Then she asked me questions. Its akin to dialog that happens between women while at a salon, but instead of when the next wedding was or what was the next fashion or the new celeb gossip, we talked about our histories. How we got to be where we were, identity, and cultural difference. The questions I asked the doctor fell flat. I asked about how he decided to study acupuncture. He said it was before the cultural revolution and back then people didn't decide. He has been working for over 36 years in the field. I asked if he knew anything about acupuncture of animals, if such a thing existed in China. His response: many people can't even afford acupuncture. I just responded by saying it is something that is catching on in the States, even for animals. So, Mia and discussed our trajectories and how we came to meet one another, as we let time pass.


MORE SOON



ETA Hot-lanta is February 25.
ETA Brookyn TBD

XXX
SJ

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Week seven: Phuket

Year of the Rat 2008
The Spring Festival, as it is referred to here in China, is the biggest holiday of the year. For the migrant workers, especially, this is important because it is the one time a year they are given days off of work to travel and see their family. With an unseasonable snow cover parts of South Central China, many were deterred from reaching their destinations. The holiday is officially one week long, but the celebration lasts until the full moon late in February culminating with the Lantern Festival. Luckily, the drought in Beijing kept us snow free and travel out of Beijing airport was relatively a breeze. With news of blocked railways and frozen electrical lines further South, I was grateful for the chance to escape the freezing temperatures in the city.
Thank you New York for worrying about the locals getting home for the holidays. I will get back to you with more of what happened with snow in South Central and Chinese Army's efforts to help people find their way home.


One Night in Bangkok

There is a back packers area of Bangkok which is infamous for everything you can imagine young traveling Westerners are looking for in an abroad experience.
You can feel the humidity wrap around you like a thick blanket upon deplaning. As you might imagine, the back packers haven is something I would normally avoid like the plague, but it was our destination for our one night in Bangkok. We should have stayed in the lovely new airport with all the comforts of home, but as least we know for sure that it is what you might imagine.
2 am, Wednesday, February 6. We walk around looking for a place to eat. The streets are lively and as you can imagine, it was slim pickins for a supper venue. We find a buzzing "Irish" Bar and Restaurant still serving food. We avoided the street food, though the company there would have been better. We ordered our first Thai meal in an "Irish" Bar. I ordered a Thai whiskey with coke to take the edge off. Henry enjoys soaking in the atmosphere while I cling on to my backpack with all my most important belongings: passport, laptop, & leica. Henry warns me of getting caught with drugs on me. I wonder if he thinks I have a secret life. Aussies abound. I enjoy my meal and try to be easy about the fraternity like background. We finally get off this beaten track and find a quieter street with monuments and photo banners of the king. We walk until our time runs out. We have to be back at the airport for the next leg of our journey. Roundtrip in taxis cost us about 1000 Baht. Dinner sets me back 800 Baht. I would recommend skipping this area and just staying at the airport or booking early for the airport hotel. We both exchanged $50 and almost used it all for our adventure into the nether regions. ($1 = 32 Thai Bhat)

As the song goes...
THE AMERICAN:
Bangkok, Oriental setting
And the city don't know what the city is getting
The creme de la creme of the chess world in a
Show with everything but Yul Brynner

Time flies - doesn't seem a minute
Since the Tirolean spa had the chess boards in it
All change - don't you know that when you
Play at this level there's no ordinary venue

It's Iceland... or the Philippines... or Hastings... or... or this place!

COMPANY:
One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster
The bars are temples but the pearls ain't free
You'll find a god in every golden cloister
And if you're lucky then the god's a she
I can feel an angel sliding up to me

THE AMERICAN:
One town's very like another
When your head's down over your pieces, brother

COMPANY:
It's a drag, it's a bore, it's really such a pity
To be looking at the board, not looking at the city

THE AMERICAN:
Whaddya mean? Ya seen one crowded, polluted, stinking town...

COMPANY:
Tea, girls, warm, sweet, sweet
Some are set up in the Somerset Maugham suite

THE AMERICAN:
Get Thai'd! You're talking to a tourist
Whose every move's among the purest
I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine

COMPANY:
One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can't be too careful with your company
I can feel the devil walking next to me

THE AMERICAN:
Siam's gonna be the witness
To the ultimate test of cerebral fitness
This grips me more than would a
Muddy old river or reclining Buddha

And thank God I'm only watching the game, controlling it

I don't see you guys rating
The kind of mate I'm contemplating
I'd let you watch, I would invite you
But the queens we use would not excite you

So you better go back to your bars, your temples, your massage parlours

COMPANY:
One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster
The bars are temples but the pearls ain't free
You'll find a god in every golden cloister
A little flesh, a little history
I can feel an angel sliding up to me

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can't be too careful with your company
I can feel the devil walking next to me

-Murray Head


Our Final Destination: Phuket Island
8 am, Wednesday, February 5
We arrive via Thai Air Aisa. The air is clean and the sun shining.
I couldn't be happier.
We get a cab. It is run on LPG.
Taxis here and in Hong Kong are switiching from diesel fuel to
liquefied petroleum gas, as it is more fuel efficient and less polluting.
The taxi takes us to where we will be staying for the week, as private home inside at gated community, just north of the Laguna complex. It is still being built and the complex is pretty quite.

The house is amazing. Beautifully done and so comfortable out of the way of swarms of foreigners. We arrive and Henry's family friends are waiting for us. Magnus, Henry's old high school mate, and his girlfriend, Liv. Crispen, Magnus' older brother is there too. We arrive to a beautiful garden, private pool, and a gorgeous room with a seaward view.














The best way to get around is by moped. We hired a moped for the 6 days we would be there.


Day 1: Wednesday
Lunch on the beach
Sunset drinks on the beach at Rasta A's
Dinner on the beach at Tum's
Midnight serenade by guitar


Day 2: Thursday
Moped around town
Grocery shopping
Grill out at home


Day 3: Friday
Breakfast at home
Moped out to the Airport Beach
Swimming around a small reef, spotted a Moray eel!
Lunch on the beach
Crispen departs for HK
Dinner on the beach with Magnus & Liv (Unseasonably heavy rain drives us indoors)



Day 4: Saturday
Breakfast at home
Magnus & Liv depart for HK
Henry and I moped around on separate bikes
for a day
Massage at A&E
Lunch on the beach
Sunset drinks at Rasta A's
Dinner on the beach







Day 5: Sunday
Picked up at Canal Village
Boat out to Phang Nga
Sea Kayaking Adventure
with Sea Canoe Eco Tour: Self paddle group
Paddle around islands and into caves and lagoons
Lunch on board with team leaders Tiger & Billy
Dinner at Toto's








Day 6: Monday
Moped out to
Gibbon Rehab Center & Bang Pae Waterfall
Picnic lunch
Sunset drinks at 360 Bar
Dinner on the beach at Tum's


Day 7: Tuesday
Departure for Beijing
















For a nice map of Phuket:
http://www.dive-the-world.com/maps-phuket-island.htm

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Week five + six: Beijing

Thanks for your comments!

I wish I could read them. I haven’t had access to a secure line since my first week here, but thank you anyway. I am so grateful to have such a lovely group of friends! I miss you all very much and look forward to spending my 33rd with you upon my return.

PS
Let me know if you know anyone who needs a summer sublet.
I am currently looking into residencies here either for the summer or fall, for about 3 months.
(May – July) or (Oct-Dec). Wish me luck!


MORE ABOUT BEIJING:
http://www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_map/2003-09/24/content_21529.htm


This weeks visited sites of historical and cultural importance:
(check out my flickr for some images)

Now, that I have been to 798 a couple times, I thought it was about time to branch out to the other artist communities, such as Song Zhuang & Caochangdi Village.
I first heard about Song Zhuang on a piece on NPR. They have been running one show a day on Beijing every morning before 9 am I think. Well, I would never have guessed how huge and developed the complexes are. Song Zhuang, like many other art spaces began popping up in 1997, so these places have been around a while.


Song Zhuang
It is the trek and might be worth hiring a driver for the day from Beijing or take the subway like I did to Tongzhou Beiyuan, then find a cab out front of the station and strike a deal. Of course someone who speaks Mandarin would be your BFF on a trip like this! The cab ride is another 20 min or so. And when you arrive, you’ll begin to see signage and art shops. We stopped into a small gallery that we had a phone number for through our Wallpaper Guide to Beijing. Rebueno Gallery was in what looked like a strip mall, so we were slightly disappointed on first look at the exterior and surrounding architecture. But as luck would have it, the gallery is run by an Chinese artist named Sunrise, who speaks English & was glad to talk to us about the area and show us her private collection and some of her work. The work is mediocre on the most part, but there are a couple jems and her work is very collectible. Besides her name and likable paintings, she had a dog named Kafka, which melted my heart. I'm bringing home a catalog of her work for those who are interested. Below is a photograph of her bedroom. Her gallery: www.rebuenogallery.com .


The Song Zhuang Village is huge. Not really village size anymore. There are a number of larger institutions and galleries to see, but unfortunately not everything was open when we were there.
People seem to clear out during the winter months. I collected a flier but it is all in Chinese.
Read more about Song Zhuang Village click here.







Caochangdi Village
On the other hand this is easy to get to by cab ride from central Beijing. It is surrounded by very gritty streets and neighborhoods, so depending on where you are dropped off, you may think you’ve hit a patch of countryside, but don’t worry. You are in the right place. Follow signs for Art Channel. They have made a nice trail of flyers to help you. Once you find it, it feels like an office complex, but what is happening inside is very exciting. I imaging in warmer weather the resident artists would be easier to spot, but it is and has been freezing the whole time I’ve been here. I attended an opening at Art Channel and Pekin Fine Arts. This is my favorite so far for a location to have a residency. Just 10 min north of the infamous 798 Dashanzi Art district, this place seems less commercial and more about art production than purely exhibition. Close enough and far enough to work!


Art Channel
Fluid – Solid: Group show featuring work of resident artist, Marc De Malsonneuve & Aurelien Chen. Chen’s photographic work showed modern day urban China through the theme of water: aquariums, rain, and dew. Marc De Maisonneuve showed projected video and an installation that stole the show, titled something like the two goldfish I fell in love with. A small tented area in the center of the gallery that you can enter and enjoy an intimate moment warmed by hanging string lights and magnified by a wall of mirrors. The tent material is everyday wrapping plastic in red, blue, and white stripes.


Pekin Fine Arts
Pekin Fine Arts is a Beijing-based private consultancy and art gallery established by Meg Maggio in November 2005. Ms. Maggio is a 20-year China resident, arts writer, curator and director of Pekin Fine Arts gallery, in Beijing. Ms. Maggio acts as advisor to leading museums, corporations and individuals on collecting and exhibiting contemporary art. (Source: Pekin Website)
Office dA Architects: A Site Specific Installation (These guys are out of Boston!)
Perry Hall: Paint Video and Sound Drawing
Suling Wang paintings.


*NOTE: As I am referencing other writing, I have signified NOT MY WORDS in grey text.


FASHION & MONEY

2005
Vogue China launches fall of 2005.

China's in vogue so Vogue's in China
In a "Business of Luxury" summit organized by the Financial Times and held in Shanghai earlier this year, luxury retailers from all over the world said they expected China to have 250 million potential purchasers of their goods by 2010.
(Source: China Daily 2005)


2006
China's hunger for luxury goods grows:
Booming nation expected to be No. 2 buyer by 2015
By Jehangir S. Pocha, Globe Correspondent
(Source Boston Globe, March 21, 2006)

2007
The Luxury Goods Market in China

According to a Merrill Lynch report, China had 235,000 millionaires in 2003 and that number is estimated to be rising by 12% per year. In addition, according to the China Brand Strategy Association, 175 million Chinese people can now afford to buy luxury products. By 2010, this number is projected to reach 250 million.

Merrill Lynch estimates that by 2014 the Chinese could become the largest source of luxury goods purchases, accounting for 24% of industry global revenues. The demand for a high quality of life is increasing dramatically, especially among successful businessmen and politicians.

Camellia Universal Ltd (China Business & Investment Advisers) is consulting with mainly British and American companies on doing business & investing in China. For more information, please visit on http://www.camelliauniversal.com
(Source: http://www.theknowledgenetwork.co.uk/newsdetails.asp?no=991)

2008
China is becoming largest market for luxury goods. With a growing middle class, hundreds of thousands of Chinese (US Dollar) Millionaires + 66 Billionaires, and a booming tourist industry, the malls are filled with lux boutiques!

http://www.nswbusinesschamber.com.au/?content=/channels/International_trade/Country_information/China/chinas_new_luxury_market.xml

Vogue cost 20 RMB at the local newspaper stand.

Exchange rates: yuan per US dollar
7.2 (2008), 7.4 (2007), 7.90 (2006), 8.10 (2005), 8.26 (2003)
http://www.xe.com/

READ THIS, it is fascinating!
http://www.camelliauniversal.com/About%20China.html

CYCLING IN CHINA:

HOT LOOK


Look expands partnership with Chinese fed
- like selling coal to Newcastle?

In the last several years the epicenter of world bike manufacturing has moved from Taiwan, which produced the vast bulk of the bikes that fuelled the early-90s mountain bike boom, to mainland China. China has shed its image as the country where millions of heavy, crude Flying Pigeon bikes churn out of bike factories and on to the streets and become the place where your next carbon fiber frame might well be built.

With the increasing sophistication of Chinese bike making, it's no surprise that French frame builder Look is rather pleased to have extended its cooperation with the Chinese bike federation to include road and triathlon bikes.

Look already supplies track frames to the Chinese federation, but as China gears up to host the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing, the deal has been extended to 2010, Look announced shortly before the world championships in Bordeaux.

And as Look is always very proud to point out, its high-end track frames come from its HQ in Nevers, France.

Look has also announced that it has opened a 200 sq metre store in the heart of Beijing, at the Workers Stadium, and recently sponsored the first event of the China-Look Cup, a stage race of which the final took place in Beijing in the presence of thousands of spectators.

So far, Look's partnership with China on the track has yielded an Olympic silver medal, won by Jonghua Jiang in the women's 500m time trial event at Athens. In Bordeaux the China/Look team added to the tally with two bronze medals, both won by Shuang Guo in the women's sprint and keirin.
(Source Cycling News)


Brief desc.s for those of you who are not bike geeks:

Click Here


Guess what my top choice would be!


Cruiser

Hybrid

Road Bike

Track Bike

Mountain Bike




Correct answers will be rewarded with special calling cards, frequently slipped under the door, offering services like “pressure release massage” and “Spanish rider” (loosely translated). They are quite charming.





ART IN BEIJING


Shopping for residencies:


There are some great opportunities, but you must have your own funding & the cost of a live work space at these residencies will put you back btwn $1000 - $2000 per month, not including purchasing your materials, feeding yourself, and flying yourself over! But if you can afford to get yourself here, you are golden.
Producing and fabricating will be much more affordable that at home, making much more possible. I am hoping to find a residency that can host me for the summer or fall of this year. Hopefully, I can make it happen by securing some funding and making sure Meta has a nice retreat while I travel.


*For those of you willing to pay your way and want to come make art with me,
please pipe up! I’m sussing things out on this end. I promise you will have so much fun!



Imagine Gallery

Studio $1,050/mo
Room 404, No.28, Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng DISTRICT, BEIJING
Fax: 0086 64385747, Telephone: 0086 13910917965


Red Gate Gallery Residency Programs
Studio $1300/mo
Beijing International P.O. Box 9039 , Beijing
Fax: +(8610) 6582 4861, Telephone: +(86) 137 010 787 21


VIS A VIS artlab – Beijing
798 art zone, Jiu Xian Qiao street 4, Chaoyang District,Beijing, Beijing
Telephone: 0086/1300 39 34 167


Platform China Contemporary Art Institute
Studio $ 1,300/mo
No.319-1, East End Art -A, Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang District, Beijing
Fax: 86-10-6432 0091, Telephone: 86-10-6432 0169


beiLAB / Theatre in Motion
Provides studio space.
Dongcheng District, Beixinqiao, Dongsi Beidajie, Dongsi Shisi Tiao 95 4 Ceng, Beijing
Telephone: 008613522494457


Art Channel Artists Residency Program
Studio $1,020/mo
Cao Chang Di Village No.249-3, East End Art Zone B, Beijing
Fax: 0086-84507859, Telephone: 0086-13521714691


Beijing Studio Center
Studios $2,500/$2,000/$1,500 monthly
Dashanzi Art District Beijing, Beijing
Fax: 008610 8959 5102, Telephone: 008610 6436 9371



Important Art Dates in Asia for 2008:


ART HK 08 (Hong Kong)
May 14 – 18, 2008



7th Gwangju Biennale (South Korea)
Sept. 5 – Nov. 11, 2008
Okwui Enwezor, Artistic Director

Might plan to go, if any one else is interested in meeting me there in October.


SATURDAY NIGHT
FEB. 2, 2008
We are having a Chinese New Year and Housewarming at Henry’s this Saturday night. I wish you all were here to join us, but as it is, we are half a world away, so I offer another option for celebration.


EAT UR HEART OUT
Thailand or bust!
I’ll be sunbathing in Phuket this lunar New Year! For all those less than spectacular new years experiences and this past one being spent sick as a dog inhaling second-hand smoke in a cabaret bar watching the likes of Madonna, Cher, and Elton on a video screen…I deserve this dream vacation! Don’t worry, I will take you there with some photos and colorful stories upon my return.

(For Ladies Eyes only)
Um, about the unmentionables, I would recommend Samantha at Eric Paris Salon in Sanlitun. I have to say it was the most painless experience. She was a master of the craft. Even compared to the Russians in New York & especially much better than an actual Brazilian woman in Brazil. I pinky swear.


TAKING HOLIDAY
Everyone working in China, yes, even the hard laborers are given a week or sometimes more to celebrate the lunar new year, where they can go visit with family. It may be their only chance to do so, as many work far, far, away from home. For many this is the only holiday they will get all year! Lets hope the snow doesn’t keep anyone from finding their way home this winter. Recently, the papers reported some blocked railways.

Gonxi Gonxi!

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Week three + four: Beijing





Hi Ya’ll!

Thanks for keeping up with me and staying interested in my travel experiences here.
Sorry for the delay. I finally have some photos to share.

Check out some photos on my Flickr.


My cybershot died just before my trip, so I am mostly shooting with my Leica on real film, but here are a few I’ve shot with Henry’s Casio. He always goes on and on about his 10 Megapixel which I was only using on about 1/5 of what it is capable of…my cybershot was from 03, so it was about time for an upgrade anyway. It served me well. RIP Cybershot!

More Survival Mandarin
(Sorry I can’t add accents, which is the key to being understood)

How large is the engine?
(and I mean that to be suggestive motorheads!)
Fadongji pailiang shi duo da de?


Can you put my photos on a disk?

Ni neng ba wo de xiangpian kao zai yi zheng pan shang ma?


Dude, this band rocks!

Gemenr, zhei yuedui zhen niu! (yes, there is a word for “dude,” dude.)



More Equivalents:

1)
waterfall = pubu
Cool news for New York from PSFK: Olafur Eliasson, the Danish–Icelandic artist known for installing a massive sun in the Tate Modern, has just announced his plans to create a series of free standing waterfalls in the East River. The waterfalls will rise 60-70 feet in the air and be visible from the area around the Seaport,..
(Source More at PSFK
)

2)
Beijing boys have haircuts to rival our coolest LES boys!
(photos to come)



3)
Pet stores here are just like the ones back home except there are tiny piglets and chinchillas you will want to touch. No doggies in this mall pet store. For some reason most of the kitties had little smooshed faces. So cute.








4)
Bowling here includes larger than life photos of ladies in lingerie.
Bowling babes at Gongti 100 Bowling and Tennis Center. 150 RMB/hr on the lanes with 5 RMB shoes. Can’t remember what the going price is a Gutter, but I don’t think you get an on screen dancing turkey when you get a double strike, thank you very much! My first bowling Turkey!







Historic Sites I have visited:


Tian’anmen Square
It is covered in surveillance cameras. Hard to really process what happened there. Apparently, there is no official body count and many where killed along the wide boulevards leading up to the square. The square sits just south of the Forbidden City. Together they are the central axis of this city. Remembering that the symbol for China is center of the world, symbolism is huge here. All points begin here.

Forbidden City
I was most struck by the scaffolding and AmEx icon on every title plaque. Apparently, there used to be a Starbucks with the Forbidden City walls, but due to protest (from who I can’t imagine!), your nearest seasonal latte is waiting for you outside. There are also a number of basketball courts inside the courtyards. Basketball is now being taught to children in school rather than general Physical Ed. Watch out America, China rules Ping Pong, Gymnastics, Hurdling, and now Basketball. Though not all are as tall as Yao Ming! The audio playing through out the historic site has been translated to English.


The Great Wall

There are many points on which you can enter and climb the wall. The closest location to the city is about 1 hour outside the city, taking the special expressway. I was lucky enough to join some visiting friends in their car to The Great Wall. Upon arrival, we found great comfort in finding a Starbucks and knowing that they would have western style bathrooms and welcome the public. Ain’t no shame in patronizing a Starbucks when you are a million miles from home.
We decided to take the tram up and make a decision about how to get down, once we reached the top. Tickets for the tram will run you 60 RMB round trip and 40 RMB for entry onto The Great Wall. The tram takes you to a resting area where you can get some food and souvenirs and you can either continue up toward the peak or start your decent. At the peak, you can be photographed with a banner and receive a certificate that acknowledges your assent to the top! It was the steepest walk I’ve ever taken. I’d suggest tram up, walk up the last bit to the top, and walk down. It is much more fun walking down.

I did feel like a bit of a wimp when I saw the occasional hardcore woman climbing up in heels. No Joke. Don’t mess with Chinese women. Oh, and do buy a “I Climbed The Great Wall” t-shirt, even if you just climbed down. I haven’t seen them available in the city and I am really regretting it. I just imagine walking down the street in New York in the spring, rocking my t-shirt that reads “I Climbed Down (in sharpie) The Great Wall.” Yes, it would make the boys drool and I would remember I had accomplished something not everyone can say they have. BUY A CHEAP T-SHIRT and get me one, please!
(FYI Mandarin translation for “Great Wall T-shirt” = Changcheng T-xushan)

The Temple of Heaven Park

Besides the totally radical name, the park is awesome because of all the local activity here. As you enter, you see an organized group working out doing some Tai Chi and walk down the avenue and stroll across water calligraphy on the stone ground that has begun to fade into air or ice. It is such a poetic and beautiful sight. Even without understanding a word, the temporal nature of the art is breathtaking. As you approach another gate, you are likely to spot couples dancing doing the tango or other classical dances to music playing from a small PA. It is like a scene from a Wong Kar Wai film. Every gate requires another ticket and eventually leads you to the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The Hall of Abstinence and Echo Wall are also at this site.



Sites I’ve visited at Dashanzi 798 Art District this week:


Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art (UCCA)
Faurschou Gallery

798 PhotoGallery

Timezone 8 Bookstore



’85 New Wave at the Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art (UCCA)
is the only show I’ve seen here that really helped me to look at the work in a historic context and helped me better understand the other forms of cultural production you will see wandering the small streets in the 798 area. On the labels next to the work, information like where the artist was born and educated was listed, something that would have been more valuable if I had a better understanding of the different regions in China, as well as, the kind of education offered at art schools here. I am always curious if the cultural exchange that really impacted these visual and performative artists is more formal or informal. It’s not like these schools have had rigorous visiting artists programs bringing International artists here. There is a new book out that might enlighten me, called “Airplanes and Parachutes: A Jonathan Napack Anthology.” You can find this book at Timezone 8 Bookstore.


One of my favorite artists I saw in the ’85 New Wave show is Zheng Peili. His pieces “Artistic Project: Document No. 2” (1987) and his video “30x30” (1988) really rocked my world. Let me quote from pieces “Artistic Project: Document No. 2” This plan aims to realize a dialogue and the peeping of it. The whole plan consists of eight parts:…

& check out:

Lawrence Weiner:To Allow the Light
There is a wall text piece by Weiner at the Ullens Center, as well.
Wish I could be there to see some of these time-based pieces.

UCCA brings Legendary Conceptual Artist Lawrence Weiner to Beijing for an artist’s talk and panel discussion, presented in conjunction with a selection of the artist’s short films, videos and books.

Lawrence Weiner (b. 1942, Bronx, New York) is one of the leading figures of conceptual art. Since first gaining international recognition in the 1960s, Weiner has used language as the primary vehicle for his work, challenging traditional assumptions about art’s authorship and reception. The artist has had major solo exhibitions at museums worldwide, including a large-scale retrospective at the Whitney Museum of American Art, on view through February 2008. In addition to his text-based works, Weiner is a prolific filmmaker and has created dozens of artist books.

TO ALLOW THE LIGHT and related film and library programs organized by UCCA curator David Spalding.


IN NEW YORK, you can see...

Whitney Museum of American Art / Anthology Film Archives

Lawrence Weiner:
Complete Films and Videos
January 23-29, 2008

PLEASE LOOK AT THE CAMERA.
EVERYBODY KNOWS THAT IT
IS THERE.


Read more about the founders, Guy and Myriam Ullens and the ’85 New Wave Movement: The Birth of Chinese Contemporary Art curated by Fei Dawei at www.ullens-center.org.



Galleri Faurschou which just opened its Beijing gallery doors with the opening of the Robert Rauschenberg: Three Decades show after his first a solo show in China 1985 at the National Art Gallery, Beijing as part of his Rauschenberg Overseas Culture Interchange tour. This show is said to have made a huge impact at a critical time for artists in China. Rauschenberg was the first major Western artist to come to China after Deng Xiaoping’s 1980’s cultural exchange policy enacted.
The work spans 80s, 90s and 2000’s. I was impressed. Not because it was big and had a color scheme that reminds you of some sun faded 70s polaroids, but because he came here made these images that eventually entered into his personal language and resonated with me as someone new here. It felt familiar and new. I loved the connections he created with images from his photographic documentation. The gallery has an impressive line up of established Western artists to exhibit in ’08.

Read more about the show and the gallery.

And read about China’s economic growth since then in NYT.


798 PhotoGallery has a show of large color photographs that document people with their things. Lined up like a garage sale, each of these portraits shows something about the people being photographed, the place where they live, and how modern China is shaping their daily lives. The photographs are by Ma Hongjie & Huang Qingjun and titled “Family Stuff.”


What’s New for nights out:


High

If you are looking for a night out and not on a budget, I’d recommend the new bar/club Song in The Place Mall (home of the largest outdoor LCD screen). It is one of the only places charging a cover, but they have projected video and a nice sound system and the design by Zhong Song is worth a trip in and of its self. They host international DJs and VJs, attracting some very interesting Beijing folk. 50 RMB to come in and about 50 RMB per drink, I recommend the Moscow Mule or Lychee Martini.


Low
On the quieter north side of the popular hutong Nan Lougu Xiang in Dongcheng district near the Drum and Bell towers and the Houhai area, you will find one of the coolest low key, Chinese owned bars ever. From what I understand, the owner built the space & furniture inside. The furniture inside is reminiscent of New Zealand designer David Trubridge and the use of ubiquitous office ceiling panels drilled with peepholes for walls is very cool. It is called Si…if and it just opened, with a couple other locations on the popular backpackers cities like Dali. Drinks are very reasonably priced. Henry & I had a beer and rum & coke for 50 RMB. We attended a small birthday gathering where the bar had prepared a table with bottle of Chivas Regal and green tea, a popular way to take your whiskey.



Some Staples:
As some of you are thinking of making a trip to Beijing,
I’ll tell you about some places I think you will like.


Q Bar (Sanlitun)
You can count on them for a well-made drink. It lives on top of a quiet hotel and has a rooftop deck for views during warmer months.

Bookworm Café and Library/Bookstore (Sanlitun) It gets packed with xpats during brunching hours, but try it on a weeknight. Its mellow and has a well stocked bar. New and old books and wifi.

Le Petit Gourmand (Sanlitun) CC-friendly*
It is a nice place to stop in for a frenchy snack or bevy. It feels like you are in someone’s study or cozy sunroom in the back.

Nam Nam (Sanlitun) CC-friendly*
My favorite place for dinner so far! Great Vietnamese food and atmosphere. It made us feel like we were somewhere much warmer.

Stone Boat Café (Ritan Park) Say yes to a sanctuary in the CBD, where you can get a damn good coffee, wifi, and yummy dumplings, not to mention a great view. It’s cozy and warm.

Ciao (CBD)
In the Twin Towers basement, you can get a really good chicken salad wrap and Latte, enjoy WiFi and peruse Chinese Vogue! Latte 25 RMB.


Some Basics:


Lay of the Land
Beijing is a sprawling city. It has ring roads that are “express” ways to move traffic more quickly than smaller roads. The first ring road is actually called “Second Ring Road,” somewhat mimicking the old city walls. The 3rd and 4th ring roads are in the city. The 5th and 6th are getting out toward the burbs. The Central Business District (CBD) is situated on the east side between the 2nd and 3rd ring roads. They are building a new financial district on the west side, so I’m not sure what that means for the CBD. The Olympic park is north and central. The airport about 45 min out of the center northeast between the 5th and 6th ring roads.


Networking in Beijing

It’s all about “name cards” folks! You can get them printed here fast and cheap. English on one side and Mandarin on the other. It’s how people network and how galleries ask for your information. Graphic design here is not as sophisticated as in the big apple, so you don’t have to spend upwards of 300 bucks to have a special one made on letterpress, like the ones you might want to exchange in the west. Plus, it is unlikely that they will have mandarin font in stock.


Word to the Wise

It’s not so easy to navigate. Though, that said, with Mandarin speaking friends on hand, cabbies are usually willing to talk to someone on your cell to help communicate. Even for easy places, sometimes you need to call the business to have them direct the drivers. The city is changing at light speed and not everyone knows where you might want to go. So, plan to buy a phone here. Its cheap and get a sim card anywhere. It is your lifeline.



Photographic Projects:

These are locations I am interested in photographing.
1) “American Model”


2 )”The Green Wall of China”
The barrier of trees planted north of the city in Gansu.


“Forest Belts A Great Success, Yet Forest Health A Concern Large barrier forest systems totaling 10 million hectares serve as windbreaks that help stabilize desert sands and prevent wind erosion. Although the forest belts today are still doing the job, Chinese experts point to several problems with the forest belt system. In many places, only trees of one variety were planted. This left the forest belts especially vulnerable to diseases.”
Read about it.


Things I miss most:

1) Planning to stay a while?
Pack it or fork out the big bucks to buy it at Jenny Lou’s!
SPICES, such as fennel, to make my pasta sauce. No kidding. Bring your peppercorn and mill if you plan to cook in.

2) BUY YOUR PROFESSIONAL FILM AT B&H before you come here.
You can go to Beijing Photo City, but it is a trek and they may not have the film you want, but it is the only place I’ve seen that sells pro film and refrigerators to hold their stock. It is like a photo expo, but equally parades some crazy wedding gear. Never seen anything like it.

Read the description below:

Beijing Photography Equipment City
联系电话:88119740, 8811972 Photography Equipment City deals in a wide range of advanced, medium and low digital electronic devices, including local and imported cameras, photosensitive materials, bridal gowns and grande toilettes, studio props, photographic lightings, enlargement equipment, hot and cold mounting machines, along with photography books, headgear and wigs, cosmetics, wedding goods, studio lightings and advertising goods. The business scope covers all products in photographic industry. From fellow blogger (scroll down for English translation).

3) My web surfing FREEDOM. You can’t count on proxies, though they are helpful for non-confidential surfing. The government is all-powerful and can block as they wish.


4) META. My dog who would not fit under the city limits for shoulder height for pooches. Can’t be taller than 35 cm (that is less than 14 in.) at the shoulder. It hurts to be away from her. If I moved here, I’d have to move out to an area just outside of the city, where the big wigs live in villas and live the suburban “American style” dream in places like the Yosemite Villas.

See for yourself.


Meta Update:

She is doing well in Atlanta with my sister. We booked an appt with the University of GA Vet Teaching Hospital in hopes of getting an MRI in late February. We have been dealing with her edema since early October 2007 and seen 4 vets, trying herbal meds and acupuncture, as there is no cure for edema. The reason I am not letting this go is because edema is seen as a symptom rather than a stand-alone medical condition. I’ve been told there is nothing to do and that vet medicine is not advanced enough to have things in place that deal with edema. I figure if there is something that exists for people, that there must be something for Meta. And more importantly, I want to know what is causing the inflammation. Yun says that it seems to be bothering her, which seemingly wasn’t the case before. If anyone has info on EDEMA, please pass along.



Bike update:
I decided to go with a local bike shop in the Sanlitun area. I bought a Chinese brand, the Phoenix, shaped like a cruiser with hybrid tires. The older model has more metal, but mine has the newer lighter but not as cool plastic parts, like pedals and a bell. We bargained and got the bike, a basket and a cool lock for 340 RMB. Earmuffs not included.

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Week two: Beijing

January 2, 2008

Today is my Father’s birthday. He would have turned 72 today. He had no idea I wanted to come to China. Though he was the one years ago, that had suggested I study Mandarin as my foreign language. I chose Italian then Spanish, after studying German in high school. I've retained about 0% of all of those choices. And now, here I am with a fall's worth of after work Mandarin classes, struggling to say, "take out, please." I'm sure in some small way he would have been excited to know about my trip here.

In my first week, I have managed to gravitate towards places that feel like home: Wal-Mart and Ikea. The big box phenomenon has infected China with its must have impulse items and affordable living ideas. These two places take credit cards, but the whole idea of plastic is still very rare. One must carry cold cash for most day-to-day expenditures. Food, drink, taxi, shopping, film developing, and even to pay bills. I stood in line at a local bank for about 30 minutes waiting for my number to flash above a teller’s window to help Henry pay his Internet bill. I have become so accustomed to using plastic; I hardly carry cash in New York because inevitably it disappears! Here, I walked into the equivalent to a local deli and chose a new cell phone number from a hand written list, with the lucky number numbers being more expensive and first to be selected, I chose one closest to Henry's. With the number you have a set plan and a new SIM card. It's incredible how easy SIM cards make travel. Henry has a stack of them, each holding a different country's identity and local contacts. The card even remembers your old messages when you have been away for years at a time. Your iPhones have them. So do most of T-mobiles phones.

Anyhow, there is a difference in being here as a visitor and staying here with some intention of investing some time. I am constantly amazed at the westerners who have managed to learn enough Mandarin to live here. It gives me hope that I could, if I decided to be here for a while. But staying here for longer than a short visit presents some problems. Like today, I went to the Police Station to register as a foreign temporary resident. Henry has to register me, but because his registration information wasn't complete, we were turned away. The real injustice was in their lack of record of something he had come in on two separate occasions to complete! So goes the bureaucratic red tape. You just have to resign yourself to a slower pace of things when it comes to government agencies. It makes it more exciting if you imagine you are in a Kafka story. Just go with it.

But on the other hand, hard labor is cheap and efficient.
Within one hour of ordering the equivalent of a 5-gallon container of drinking water on a Saturday night, a young man stood at our door with our water. The construction workers that are erecting all the new Olympic other government buildings work day and night, living on-site in temporary housing. The night skyline, when you can see it through the smog is beautiful and full of neon lights and sparks in the dark spaces where new buildings are coming up overnight.



Equivalents

$1 = 7.3 RMB approx

2 seasonal coffees at Starbucks = 58 RMB = approx $8

the cheapest adult bike at Wal Mart
199 RMB approximately equivalent to $27 US
(photo will be made available soon)

order of 12 steamed buns = 4 RMB = $0.55

bottle of Jamesons 128 RMB = approx $17.50

prices of cocktails can vary like prices for massages*
upmarket expat bars can charge almost as much as a drink in Brooklyn
even the fanciest bar I've seen, the LAN Club, a Stark designed explosion of opulence, a bevy will only put you back about $8 each.
Check it out:
http://www.lanbeijing.com
(turn the volume down if you are in the office or
have "BOS" - boss over shoulder!)

Low key dinner out for two is about 50 RMB < $7 Nice dinner costs for two is under 100 RMB < $15 Supper fancy dinner for two can cost over 200 RMB < $30 (and there is no tipping here) Small dogs being walked in New York are often dressed in booties and rainjackets or tracksuits or hoodies. In Beijing, the small dogs also don outfits for their evening strolls, but like allot of things here, are a little dirtier than New York counterparts. "DL" in the States means Down low, as in the scoop. Here "DL" is code for the one who shall not be named. Survival Mandarin Boo Yao = Not interested! Ni Hao = Hi, how are you? Hen hao = Very well, thanks. Zaijian = See ya! Duibuqi = Pardon me. Mei guanxi = Ain’t no big thing. No apologies necessary. Wo bu shi Zhonguoren = I am not a Chinese person. Daizou = to go, as in take-out. Jiao... = My name is... Mei Dan = Check, please. January 8, 2008 What I have seen: 1) The increasingly infamous 798 Dashanzi Art Zone: Far more extensive than I could have imagined. The area is full of galleries, cafes, studios, stores, and TBD in transition spaces. The level of work varies and there is an attitude of not separating high and low art or commercial or contemporary art practice here. The entire are has an art school experimental vibe and you can see work from local and international artists, with work selling for serious art market prices. The market here is totally inflated, but the fact that this space exists is a real testament to the critical mass of locals interested in cultural production like never before! You’ll spot lots of westerns, scouting… www.798space.com 2) Just west of Tiananmen Square, The new National Grand Theatre designed by French architect Paul Andreu, who also designed Terminal 3 at Dubai International Airport and a terminal of the Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris called Paris Aéroport Charles de Gaulle 1: This ginormous titanium half oval is made complete by in the shallow reflection pool that serves as both moat and mirror. As you circumnavigate this space age looking structure, you might be at a loss for an access point. It takes about 15 minutes to stroll around this building. It might take the same to find an entrance, then when you do, you will just be met with a barrier of metal detectors and find out that no further entrance will be permitted without purchase of a ticket costing way too much and sold out anyway for months! I had heard a rumor about 30 RMB standing room only tickets for locals, but can’t confirm. (if you can read Chinese, no English version available) http://www.chncpa.org http://www.china.org.cn/english/2005/Feb/120675.htm 3) Glimpses of sites at the Olympic park being called the Olympic Green: + The National Stadium aka “The Birds Nest” Olympic Stadium designed by Swiss-based Herzog & de Meuron in collaboration with local artist Ai Weiwei + The National Aquatics Center aka “The Water Cube” created by Australian-based architects PTW and engineering firm Ove Arup Check out the Official site: http://en.beijing2008.cn/cptvenues/ What I have learned: 1) Titanium is not indestructible. 2) When journeying over the wild oceans waters and seeing potential danger, never call a Mayday distress signal unless you are ready to abandon ship. And when doing so, there is an exact protocol to follow, including calling “Mayday, Mayday, Mayday” 3 times.

3) Back in the day, diplomats living in Beijing were only allowed to use a special currency accepted at specific locations for all their needs and commerce, called Foreign Exchange Certificates, or FEC's. The Friendship Store was created for foreigners to offer familiar products from home that was not until recently made available to the greater public. Follow this link to find out more or make a purchase!


A recent NYT article talks about currency and FECs. I personally didn’t realize that FECs were floating around and have never seen any product marked with prices in FEC and RMB, but what do I know.


Some basic facts you ought to know:

There are many dialects in China such as Beijingese and Shanghainese, for every province, but Mandarin in the National Language of Mainland China. Though people may not understand each other’s speech, everyone can read the same text, even in the traditionally Cantonese speaking areas such as Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Written Chinese is a pictorial and poetic language. As the symbol for China looks like and means “Center of the Earth” (Earth symbolized by the square), the symbol for depression is the symbol for love with a cage around it and the symbol for marriage are two characters for happiness side by side, more commonly referred to as “Double Happiness.”

Bei means Northern + Jing means Capital = “Northern Capital”

Tiananmen translates to “Gate of Heavenly Peace”
RMB = “currency of the people”



A recent New Yorker article talks about the new generation of car drivers in Beijing, driving like they walk, an observation I made upon first arrival here. If you’ve ever found yourself in the hustle and bustle of any Chinatown, USA or beyond, you may have a taste of the laws that govern that movement…
In most cases Chinese culture promotes shying away from confrontation, but the laws of nature in regard to resources and need seem to have overflowed onto the highways. Being a nation of billions vying for limited resources have taught these urban Chinese to be more aggressive and not give way for anyone whether in cars, bicycles or on foot! Full speed ahead seems to be the motto, using the horn to communicate to people as one might a heard of animals you might encounter in the countryside. Cyclists seem to give way more than car drivers as there usually is space to swerve around obstacles, but with the speed of the automobile and the number of vehicles that occupy the lanes, the inexperienced and more aggressive driver temps fate only pressing harder on the gas.


Health update:

After an almost instant upper respiratory infection upon arrival, I spend a week feeling like I couldn't stop coughing and catch my breath. After a visit from Henry's parents, both MDs, I got what I needed: a round of antibiotics, a steroid inhaler, and a fast acting inhaler to clam my asthmatic fits. Feeling better and more energetic, but not quite ready to hit the smoke filled bars.

The target="_blank">real DL on the "Blue Skys" in Beijing.


Signing off
Love Beijing