In the Aftermath

I have arrived to the nations capital just in time for the official period of mourning after the Quake of May 12th and multiple aftershocks. This is apparently the first time China has allowed the Media to be such an integral part of a natural disaster and the healing process that follows. Times are slowly changing...

National Days of Mourning
May 19, 20, & 21

3 minutes on Monday May 19 at 2:28 pm the streets stood still as the horns blared.

These symbolic gestures are the kind of thing that remind you that there are some universally understood truths. There are many cultural differences to be found and considered, but when natural disaster strikes, the whole world can stand still together. It is something we are all vulnerable to and therefore can be sympathetic towards. Even on the street, you can see a small difference in how people are treating one another. You see lending helpful hands here and there in a society where it is more common to see an "every man for himself" attitude. A light of hope at a devastating time for China.


Some BEIJING BASICS:

Though it is a time for reflection, there is always some humor to be found in the human condition.

A. That's Beijing
Is the Village Voice of Beijing, but in magazine format.
Check out some of TBJ's online offerings:

1)
My favorite singles ad is titled "Let's end the boring time."

2)



3) 1982
Warhol on the Wall


B. Insider's Guide to Beijing
A great guide book and offers the best Mandarin Phrasebook to communicate your everyday needs, such as...

1) (On ordering a drink.) Make it stiff!
Yao lie yidiannr!

2) (On ordering food.) Are there internal organs in that dish?
Zhei dao cai you neizang ma?

3) (On ordering my favorite locals cocktail.) Chivas and green tea.
Zhihuashi he lucha.


C. Urbane
China's Design Art Architecture Lifestyle Travel Magazine

You can pick up a copy at most foreigner frequented spas, bars, or restaurants
or get a free 12 month subscription by emailing them directly.

This months issue has features on One Way Street Library, a Master Diver who wants to teach the Chinese to dive, and Moganshan (once Shanghai's version of the Hamptons).


(D - Z: TBD)

PS Beijing's new airport designed by Norman Foster (also the designer of the world famous Hong Kong Airport) opened this February (must have been after my departure) and is "reputedly the world’s largest building – approx. 1.3m sqm mostly under one roof." Upon arrival, I was in shock and awe.
It was a completely opposite experience to when I arrive just after Christmas 07. The transformation is amazing. The whole city underwent a major growth spurt during my 2 and a half months state side.
Check out some photos of the airport, now Olympic ready.

Capital Airport
2003-08 Foster + Partners

Upon Arriving for the second time...

I believe in accepting indirect routes as opportunity for adventure.
For this trip out, I took a flight through Newark to Hong Kong via ATL.
It has been years since I have been in the Newark Airport. Things have changed.
The once thing I'm always wishing for in an airport existed here. The airport spa.
Last minute chair massages, nails or waxes! Yeah. I was really impressed with the changes. What I remembered of this place was something simpler, more streamline, and smaller. Just functional. Now, I might consider flying in or out of this place next time, considering LGA ultra short runway, and JFK's traffic, though easy to avoid with public transport.

15 hours after departing the New Newark, I found myself in New York time, but 12 hours ahead. I wound my watch ahead and tried to wrap my head around traveling 15 hours to get 12 hours ahead. The best part of the flight was watching Lost in Translation mins before landing. Laughing out loud at Bill Murray and the feeling of foreign-ness. It was a great place to put my head before landing.


Why I <3 Hong Kong ( <3 = heart )

I've only been here as a small child and had no memories. The only connection I have to it now, is that I have been dreaming of visiting with Henry there in his childhood place and thinking about how cool it would be to learn to sail and live by the ocean.
Hours before I left Atlanta to board my first plane, I got the dreaded call from Henry, saying that the earthquake news is keeping him at work and he would no longer be able to meet me in Hong Kong for our long weekend for our reunion tour! As an optimist, I decided to make the most of it and accept the things I cannot control. Life with a journalist. Turns out it was a perfect opp to remind myself how well I can travel solo. Besides, HK is about the easiest places to be. Arrived in the very well appointed airport. Put my extra luggage in lockers and took the airport express into Hong Kong! Super smooth. Easy to get a cab and was at my hotel in less than an hour door to door. I wouldn't know what the game plan was til I could check email and find out what Henry planned during my flight. Was ready to spend a couple days and take the train to Beijing, but luckily he booked me on a flight out the next afternoon, giving me enough time to do somethings in the city by myself.

Dinner in LKF, a touristy area I might have avoided if I had known what to expect, but it was good to see and have a quick Indian supper, fortunately just above street level that I could escape the frat party. After my delicious chicken tikka marsala, I strolled toward SOHO (South of Hollywood) and found the atmosphere there a bit closer to my taste in terms of a dinner date kinda feeling. Saw some commercial gallery spaces and photographed in the night light for a while. Then an early night at the Bishop Lei, which I would recommend to anyone looking for location and low key place to stay. Its connected to a Catholic Church and is run by the Archdiocese OF HK. Pretty rad story and all that you could need from a hotel, sans fluff. A rec from friends I really respect and know a thing or two about architecture.

Bright and early, I joined the hundreds of HK-ers strolling through the Botanical Gardens/ Zoological Park, which is free BTW and amazingly lush. I saw all the plams I could ever wish for and a beautiful Jaguar, baby monkeys, and so many birds. Photos soon to be on Flikr...Walked and found my way through to the Tram up to the Peak. Something all tourists do for the view of Victoria Harbor. Somethings are worth it, though you have to endure feeling like part of the pack. It was a great early morning thing to do. Then I had scoped out a dim sum place that I could go to before having to prepare for the airport again! Luk Yu Tea House, right next to the LKF area, but the streets are in use by cars by day and the streets feel more manageable. I tried three different types of dumplings (which rank up there as one of my favorite foods, by design and taste).

K- running out of puter juice, so TBC.

Later!

Please write to me. I miss ya'll already.

XXX
SJL