Feeling better about roaming around as getting lost in the freezing cold is no longer a problem. The sights are familiar & the language is slowly soaking in. My focus this trip is to make art, art world connections, and see more of China.
I love learning through the experience of food. Here is a special example...
Three Guizhou Men is a slightly up scale chain known for its fried ribs. The cuisine is inspired by the Guizhou region in the south, sandwiched between: Sichuan, Hunan, Guangxi Zhuang, & Yunnan. I am just learning about the 8 regional cuisines of China, so bear with me as I try to describe for you this tasty delight! It had the complex spices of Yunnan food with the hot (as in spicy) flavors of Sichuan. Guizhou is made up of over 18 ethinic minority groups, including Miao, Dong, Hui, Yi, Bouyi, Shui, Zhuang, and Gejia. The sum of which apparently contribute to the reason why it is home to more folk festivals than any other province in China! You can imagine the landscape as green countryside with terraced hillsides, waterfalls in forests, and home to the largest underground cave in China called Zhijin! (You will notice a reoccurring theme claiming the "largest" or "greatest" or "oldest" or "newest" of everything!)
I'd recommend the ribs and the sizzling beef. They also have these great potato cakes made of mashed potatoes that you are meant to dip into a bowl of orange tinted spices. You don't find a lot of potatoes in northern cuisines (as far as I have found) and potatoes are my favorite vegetable, so I miss it.
Hatsune is a solid staple for Japanese food and generally you will need to call ahead. It is Japanese as you'd find it in New York. I'm looking forward to trying restaurateur Alan Wong's new project called Haiku in Block 8, a development on the western edge of Chaoyang Park!
What I'm up to this week:
Three Shadows Sichuan Earthquake Benefit
The benefit was a huge success and I came away with an original set of New Photo. East Village costs about Y4,500 and are in limited supply, but I only budgeted myself Y2,000. Luckily, the was a collectors set of the first four issues of New Photo that was within my budget! It is a beautiful collection bound together in a handmade case with an essays by Wu Hung and Zhang Li.
Live music in Ritan Park at Stone Boat
The Stone Boat is a beautifully conceived of cafe/bar inside Ritan Park along the water. Frequented by both locals and foreigners and venue for a wide range of music, it is always an interesting place to spend some time, either with or without laptop. In the evenings, the park is closed to street traffic, but you can go in for Stone Boat. Started by a couple, her a Chinese local, him an American journalist.
Drinks on the roof of The Emperor
This boutique hotel on the east side of the Forbidden City is a sight to see and experience. Designed by GRAFT LAB, this very modern interpretation of Chinese imperial heritage is the first of its kind (as far as I have seen). Each room is named after an emperor, hence the grand title. Yin Bar, atop this bright orange hotel, is the kind of place that makes you feel as though you've been transported. The views are spectacular, as well as, the bevies and light bar menu offered. The menu itself is a work of art.
Day in Chaoyang Park
Chaoyang Park is the Central Park of Beijing. But imagine it as newly planted with a Disney World like component. Soft "Romantic" music pipped over the speaker system and a safari of staged wedding portraits as you wander this landscape, you are reminded of how every culture has its own ideals of love. Each photographer with his own long range lens lying in the grass hoping to capture that moment when there is the perfect light and angle of the couple in the mating ritual. I walked into a giant ladybug that houses the public restroom, where I encountered a gaggle of girls undressing and dressing the bride. Its hard to imagine this is the same room I worry about stomaching the odor and think how I will need to roll up my pants legs to save from soaking in the wetness from the squat stalls. It was like seeing the staging ground for the things you never think are based in reality, but really in reality. Anyway, I was especially impressed by a couple in matching wedding wear, reminiscent of the stylings of Prince circa early 80's. Now that was a sight to see. Some of the men here seem to be just as into the fantasy as the women.
Visiting galleries in the "Jiuchang (liquor factory)":
Arario Gallery
Jiuchang Art Complex
Beihuqu Road
Anwaibeiyuan Street
Chaoyang District, Beijing
100012 P.R. China
There is a part of town, where the population is mostly made up of Koreans. This Jiuchang Art Complex is just off this part of town, through construction sites and over dirt roads. It houses some galleries that have quite the reputation in Beijing. Arario is one such premier gallery. many of the galleries here seemed to be Korean-owned, which may account for its location. It is like many things in Beijing, a bit hard to find, but well worth the trip. Jiuchang was quite on the Friday afternoon I went to visit. All the spaces that were open, welcomed us and were eager to answer any questions. I was at a loss with out my name cards and enough Mandarin to network, but my Korean did come in handy a couple times.
Saturday Night at
Dos Kolegas a bar next to a drive-in movie theater!
I will try to sneak some photos of couples making out...
After a picnic dinner in Chaoyang Park, we walked to the north gate opposite Beijing's famous Drive-In Movie theater and Dos Kolegas which is in the complex housed by this theater. It was apparently the place to gather during the SARS scare, as it was exempt from laws against public gatherings, as one would assume the people were neatly contained in their metal cages they drove in on. From where I stood at the outdoor garden of Dos Kolegas, I could see no outdoor screen or the cars lined up with people watching the film. What I could see was a small body of water and some bright signs that looked more like signs in a motel parking lot. Not sure what the deal is with the drive in, but Dos Kolegas was like a mini music festival and house show rolled into one. Lots of expats and some locals that looked as East Village as you can imagine. It was the 3rd anniversary party, so it was pretty packed. At Y50 a head, they must make a killing. Some western customs are slow to be adopted, but here the locals traveled with their mini-mutts, just like Manhattan! Dog culture is catching on, but lots of people are still afraid of dogs, especially the big ones (meaning above the city limit of 14 inches).
The only place for a big dog is in the Villas just outside the 5th ring road. Though there is no guarantee that another rabies scare won't sweep the city and call for some unimaginable recourse. I will spare you if you don't know about this.
All in all, a good 2 going on 3 weeks! I've gotten myself a language tutor who is totally rad and a dog-lover too. She is a born and raised Beijinger and has a really good command of the English language despite never traveling to an English speaking land. Instead she has an American roommate and hosts travelers in their apt offering guidance, language, cooking, and anything you might need to make your trip more enjoyable. I would recommend staying with her to anyone wishing to really get a feel for Beijing. (must love dogs, ofcourse).
Love from Beijing.
Pinyin of the day:
Meiguo = USA = Beautiful Land
Pinyin statement of the day:
Wo shi Meiguoren.
I am an American person.
To Do List:
Further explore CaoChangdi Art Village (aka "The East Village")
DoArt
261 Caochangdi
Airport Service Rd.
Chaoyang District, Beijing
China
