MetaSJ: Seoul for Valentines

The song that has me hopeful these days...

Bob Dylan's

Lay, Lady, Lay

Lay, lady, lay, lay across my big brass bed
Lay, lady, lay, lay across my big brass bed
Whatever colors you have in your mind
I'll show them to you and you'll see them shine

Lay, lady, lay, lay across my big brass bed
Stay, lady, stay, stay with your man awhile
Until the break of day, let me see you make him smile
His clothes are dirty but his hands are clean
And you're the best thing that he's ever seen

Stay, lady, stay, stay with your man awhile
Why wait any longer for the world to begin
You can have your cake and eat it too
Why wait any longer for the one you love
When he's standing in front of you

Lay, lady, lay, lay across my big brass bed
Stay, lady, stay, stay while the night is still ahead
I long to see you in the morning light
I long to reach for you in the night
Stay, lady, stay, stay while the night is still ahead

[This is what my lover would sing to me]

Koreans are totally into LOVE. ROMANCE. DRAMA.
It was the perfect place to come for this Hallmark holiday and get in touch with my roots.

I flew on the 14th, getting a lovely stamp on my visa for Valentines.
Was up at the crack of dawn to get to the airport by 6 am to make my 8:45 am international flight to Seoul. This 3 hour rule is ingrained into me like having to finish my plate. It is best to give that time, but I was plenty early, meaning I had to do some early morning Duty Free shopping and buy expensive airport cafe coffee. Ah, the rituals of air travel. I did get myself the red Chanel lipstick I've been wanting. Found out it is called "New York Red." How à propos? Why you ask?

Korean women take their looks very seriously. Wearing foundation and lipstick is as important as nice shoes. I have gotten used to going a la natural in so many ways, living single and not on the prowl in Beijing, where it is totally acceptable to go out in your pajamas at night. OK, well maybe not to the places foreigners frequent, but it is a very real local custom. Not just in the village I live in. You can spot it in the city too. Especially in winter when who can be bothered to get out of long johns to go to the corner deli to pick up milk or whatever. Anyway, "New York Red" is perfect for Seoul. I will have to behave like a real lady here. I will like having to do that. It feels much more civilized. After the studio with squat toilets and no running water in my bathroom, taking towel baths with boiled water from a sink in my room (thank goodness the water is flowing there). That's probably enough visualizing there!

SO, SEOUL is fabulous. Modern, clean, efficient, great food, and I can speak the language and understand even more than I can say. It is a lovely feeling. On top of that, most of the young people are into speaking English, so if in need, I can try in Korean first then switch to English as a second resort.
It is also culturally more similar to what I am used to in the States. A society with social standards like being polite to strangers and using trash receptacles! There are photo booths in the subway stations and a multi-use T money card (equivalent to the Octopus card for HK) that you can pay for public transit and convenience stores around town. People pay a lot of attention to how they look here, so like I said...lipstick, heels, hair. All done in your own style, but done! Cell phones work in the subway, taxi's abound, street food is good and readily available, the dollar is strong, and shopping is supposed to be amazing! Can't wait to see the independent designs in Myeong dong. My favorite West Village boutiques (Albertine & Claudine) owner told me it is great. And if you know her taste, you know it is a very high recommendation.

I have heard of Koreans as the Irish of Asia. Full of Passion, booze, and an underdog mentality. To be more specific, South Koreans and South Irish have a lot in common in terms of history, and therefore culture. Also, it could be a natural fire in the blood, which even under similar conditions other people may not have gotten such a reputation. I'm rather proud of being known for passion. That is the root of the booze and well the underdog mentality is due to historical circumstance. But I digress...

Basically, the young men in Korea are really cute and styled out. I think the soap operas have had a major influence on the youth of today. They are well-dressed, well-mannered, and sensitive! They want to push the baby cart, ya know! Maybe I should broaden my range of potential suitors?

Just the first day out, so stay tuned. I'll update as I go!

What I did in Seoul:
Seoul Subway Map

Met up with my friend Sonya who happens to be visiting family at the same time. When I heard she would be in Korea, I booked to try to have some time there together. We know each other from the freelance world in New York. It was so great to cross over into this new reality and get to know each other better. She had me in stitches laughing most of the time! It was a real healthy break from the intense soul searching and questioning I've been doing in China. We are both Korean American and speak some Korean, so doing some traveling together was an absolute hoot. She's like the hot brainy girl and I'm like the cute younger sister. We are essentially the same age, but there is an aura that makes Sonya come across as more adult. Even though we are older than we look, the Koreans were all very complimentary about our youthful appearance. I think it is just that we are both not married and have had no children. There is a term here called "old miss" to describe older non-married types, but there is also a term coined out of this term called "gold miss" for a new breed of women choosing to marry later in life or maybe not at all. Socially Korea has become much more liberal accepting "gold misses" and single mom's who never married. Its a whole new world to the one Sonya and remember from visiting in our younger days. There is progress.

Saturday
Travel Day
Time with Uncle and family

Sunday (Spent 114,000 won = $82)
Met up with Sonya Rhee(all the way from LA/NYC)!

Gyeongbokgung (Gyeongbok Palace)
The biggest of 5 Palaces in Seoul.
3,000 won Admission

National Folk Museum of Korea
Set up by the US military in 1945, hence the highlighting of western symbols such as a GE fan and Beatles album in the exhibitions. This is a cool museum and worth the trip. Don't forget to stop by the museum shop, as well. Free admission.

Samcheongdong
An area full of cafes and galleries. Perfect for a Sunday stroll, except in -4C.
Anguk station, line 3, exit 1*

ARARIO SEOUL (since 2002)
#149-2, Sokyuk-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul, Korea

+82 2 723 6190

"On the Earth" paintings by Lim, YoungSun

free entrance to The National Folk Museum of Korea
2,000 won = Travel size bottle of contact solution ($1.50)
3,000 won = Ticket to Geoungbokgung ($2)
4,000 won = Paris Baguette latte, a crab burger from the same place, or a plate of lovely noodles in a cafe in the gallery area ($3)
5,000 won = Photo booth pictures and Ticket to the World Jewelry Museum ($3.50)
10,000 - 30,000 won = Earrings/gifts from some boutiques in the same area ($7 - $21)

Monday (Spent 160,800 won = $113)
Techno Mart (TM)
Subway Line No.2 to Gangbyeon Station, and go through the connecting underground pass.
10 or so floors of shopping
electronics, clothing, and food!
Prices didn't seem amazing. Maybe worth the trip to Youngsan.

Kwang Jang Market
Subway Line 1 Jongno 5(oh)-ga Station
7:00am ~ 7:00pm
Closed Sundays
Fabrics, blankets, buttons galore.
Amazing food on the ground floor! (get the bindetuk for 5,000 won)

60,000 won = 5 yards of fuchsia silk (12,000 won per yard) ($42.00)
32,000 won = 4 yards for some wool plaid (8,000 won per yard) ($23.00)
45,000 won = set of silverware for 10 ($32.00)
10,000 won = set of two batteries for Leica (5,000 each set) ($7.00)
4,800 won = cameo buttons (800 won each) ($3.50)
4,000 won = pink purse/gift ($3.00)
3,000 won = bag of roasted chestnuts ($2.00)
2,000 won = black plastic cameo broach ($1.50)
160,800 won = Spent

Tuesday
National Museum of Korea
Spend 3 hours in the first half of the first floor.
Beautiful museum and the archeology section was awesome!
Free admission for permanent collection.

Dinner with Uncle's family.

Wednesday
Flew to Jeju Island aka "Island of World Peace." Stayed at Ocean Grand on the less swanky part of the island and loved it. It is right on the beach and it was easy to get food and walk around.

Thursday
Hired a driver for the day. 100,000 Won (9 am - 6 pm)
Worth every bit!

Friday
Slept in and got a late start.
We liked our driver so much, we hired him the next day for a half-day.
Flew out after dinner, feeling good about what we saw.

Saturday
Sinsa is just south from Apgujeong, the "Rodeo Drive" of Seoul and hosts boutiques with local designers apparel and great little restaurants and coffee shops. My favorite shop was called UnderStar. In the basement space of a large building, just look for the antique dress form you can see through the doorway. I loved almost everything I saw, even if it wasn't all for me, they have really done a nice job. Prices are fair and you will know you've gotten something special. There is a popular chain selling a mix of vintage and modern second-hand clothing called 103, that has a website where you can shop. Rumor has it they will be opening a location in New York. They also carry a nice selection of coffee table and design books.

Sunday
DMZ Tour of the 3rd Tunnel and Observation Tower and the last train station in South Korea before entering into the North. The train and tracks are fully operational South-side, but the North has not opened the door for Koreans to pass through, only accepting material aid as cargo for the trains.
The tour meets in Seoul at 8 am and travel 45 mins North to the DMZ area. A tour with lunch costs 60,000 Won. Lunch is fine, but they drop you in a nice area in Seoul where you can go search out a place on your own too.

Monday
Last morning in Seoul. My Uncle and I are looking for a buckwheat pillow for me.
Its something I miss from my childhood. Lets see what I find.

The corn dog in SK is amazing! Sonya introduced them to me.
They are fried and have a crispy outer layer with a funnel cake like batter that wraps around the hot dog. It is a sweet salty explosion in your mouth. Not to miss, but make sure its fresh and fried!

TIPS for Travel in Korea:
Rent a cell phone at the airport. You cannot simply buy a sim card and insert to your international phone, like in China (and apparently in most other Asian/South Asian countries).

Korea is one hour later than Beijing.
UTC/GMT +9 hours